South Georgia Island
How does one begin to describe a day like today? The only common thread was the large inquisitive eyes of “weaners,” young elephant seals recently sent out on their own to discover the world in which they live. Exploding with diversity, their universe, nine hundred miles from anywhere, opened its arms to us today.
Sunrise is so early it is almost non-existent. Thus it is easy to fool the mind into being wide-awake at 0600 hours and on shore, binoculars and cameras in hand. Clouds embraced the peaked mountains at the head of Fortuna Bay and they only slowly revealed themselves. As the sun painted their jagged edges and glimmered on green grassy plains it gently warmed the morning air. Upon our arrival feisty fur seals had protected their densely packed territories, snoozing bulls could barely muster enough energy to peer lazily with one eye as we passed. Elephant seals pressed their sausage-like bodies against the cold cobbles of the beach. King penguins picked up their skirts and stood ankle deep in sinuous streams, cooled by melting snow. When that was not enough, they marched in formation to the oceans edge and cascaded into the surf.
The southern seas drew adventurers toward the icy continent long ago. Many passed this way. As the morning progressed we followed in the footsteps of Sir Ernest Shackleton in his fight for life and a means of rescue for his stranded companions. Huge dark eyes followed us as we climbed from the beach and through the tussock grass border above. Up and ever upward for a thousand feet or so we followed the fractured rock slope. Glaciers poured from the valleys all around. Tarns filled with blue ice and navy water channeled us from ridge to ridge. Finally far below the waters of Stromness Bay appeared, a welcome sight indeed. Our descent was steep but hastened by sliding sledding adventures down snowy slopes. The remains of a whaling station stood as a ghostly reminder of the destruction of the past. But hope for the future could be found in the dozens of squirming dark balls of fur seal pups that tumbled under and around massive propeller blades that still waited for ships that never appeared.
Although not far away, Cumberland Bay was another world, one where snow fell fast in massive wet flakes and blanketed the hillsides in a blink of an eye. Grytviken might be forgotten with the disappearance of its reason for existence but it is remembered as the resting place of Shackleton. We paid homage at his grave and then went on to the museum to learn more of both past and present (and to shop a little too!) As darkness fell, the church bells tolled. Officers, crew, guests and staff joined together to celebrate the coming of Christmas. One wonders how long it has been since this tiny chapel at the end of the world last heard so many voices lifted in song.
And the eyes on the beach glowed with curiosity still as we made our way back to our floating home.
How does one begin to describe a day like today? The only common thread was the large inquisitive eyes of “weaners,” young elephant seals recently sent out on their own to discover the world in which they live. Exploding with diversity, their universe, nine hundred miles from anywhere, opened its arms to us today.
Sunrise is so early it is almost non-existent. Thus it is easy to fool the mind into being wide-awake at 0600 hours and on shore, binoculars and cameras in hand. Clouds embraced the peaked mountains at the head of Fortuna Bay and they only slowly revealed themselves. As the sun painted their jagged edges and glimmered on green grassy plains it gently warmed the morning air. Upon our arrival feisty fur seals had protected their densely packed territories, snoozing bulls could barely muster enough energy to peer lazily with one eye as we passed. Elephant seals pressed their sausage-like bodies against the cold cobbles of the beach. King penguins picked up their skirts and stood ankle deep in sinuous streams, cooled by melting snow. When that was not enough, they marched in formation to the oceans edge and cascaded into the surf.
The southern seas drew adventurers toward the icy continent long ago. Many passed this way. As the morning progressed we followed in the footsteps of Sir Ernest Shackleton in his fight for life and a means of rescue for his stranded companions. Huge dark eyes followed us as we climbed from the beach and through the tussock grass border above. Up and ever upward for a thousand feet or so we followed the fractured rock slope. Glaciers poured from the valleys all around. Tarns filled with blue ice and navy water channeled us from ridge to ridge. Finally far below the waters of Stromness Bay appeared, a welcome sight indeed. Our descent was steep but hastened by sliding sledding adventures down snowy slopes. The remains of a whaling station stood as a ghostly reminder of the destruction of the past. But hope for the future could be found in the dozens of squirming dark balls of fur seal pups that tumbled under and around massive propeller blades that still waited for ships that never appeared.
Although not far away, Cumberland Bay was another world, one where snow fell fast in massive wet flakes and blanketed the hillsides in a blink of an eye. Grytviken might be forgotten with the disappearance of its reason for existence but it is remembered as the resting place of Shackleton. We paid homage at his grave and then went on to the museum to learn more of both past and present (and to shop a little too!) As darkness fell, the church bells tolled. Officers, crew, guests and staff joined together to celebrate the coming of Christmas. One wonders how long it has been since this tiny chapel at the end of the world last heard so many voices lifted in song.
And the eyes on the beach glowed with curiosity still as we made our way back to our floating home.
