Hornsund, Svalbard
Alas, our time has finally run out on this journey through Svalbard, but fortunately our good luck held until the very end. We left the fog behind somewhere in the night and found ourselves on familiar seas this morning as we woke to a golden sun beaming down upon spectacular blue ice. The Endeavour had glided into Hornsund for the second time in these past seven days. This breathtaking series of fjords is named for the reindeer antlers it resembles, and as we learned on our first stop, it can be an incredible backdrop for photography. No rainbows today, however, as the sun lit up the ice and glacier in near blinding radiance.
Perhaps that is why Stefan Lundgren, our premier bear-spotter, could have missed seeing a swimming polar bear until it was less than 20 feet off his Zodiac’s port side. If he hadn’t confessed it to be true, none of us who know him would have believed it even possible, but the truth can be sly, and like the polar bear, take its audience by surprise. While some were enjoying the fjord at their own paddling pace, others, true to the nature of this photo safari, were in the little black boats with Stefan and company trying to get a few last shots of the bountiful scenery and fauna. So as Stefan eased his Zodiac within 50 feet or so of two wary bearded seals, the group was unaware that they were not the first to spot the two photogenic pinnipeds. A rather large, and apparently, hungry polar bear was stealthily swimming parallel to the boat and wasn’t keen on letting his meal get away because of these new camera-toting interlopers. Stefan saw it just as the bear dove under the surface and everyone was able to watch in awe as seconds later the bear exploded out of the water and on top of the seal and ice. The bearded seal is fast, however, and, more importantly for its survival, strong. It immediately began twisting rapidly towards the water pulling the white bear with it into the milky, glacial bay. Moments later, and much to everyone’s surprise, the bear came back out alone and empty-handed. After glaring at the stunned group and stomping its feet in disgust, the obviously disappointed bear meandered out of the fjord for new hunting grounds elsewhere.
Regrettably, we too are making our way to destinations elsewhere. As we depart the ship tomorrow for our various homeward itineraries, we’ll carry with us memories of some of nature’s largest (the graceful and sleek fin whale) and smallest (the hearty, yet elegant flowers of Koenigia islandica) wonders. And hopefully, we will also be able to reflect upon these experiences and lessons now behind us and look upon our world, and our photos, from a different perspective…to see not just the obvious images surrounding us, but also those hidden scenes that lie in the peripheries of the first glance.
Alas, our time has finally run out on this journey through Svalbard, but fortunately our good luck held until the very end. We left the fog behind somewhere in the night and found ourselves on familiar seas this morning as we woke to a golden sun beaming down upon spectacular blue ice. The Endeavour had glided into Hornsund for the second time in these past seven days. This breathtaking series of fjords is named for the reindeer antlers it resembles, and as we learned on our first stop, it can be an incredible backdrop for photography. No rainbows today, however, as the sun lit up the ice and glacier in near blinding radiance.
Perhaps that is why Stefan Lundgren, our premier bear-spotter, could have missed seeing a swimming polar bear until it was less than 20 feet off his Zodiac’s port side. If he hadn’t confessed it to be true, none of us who know him would have believed it even possible, but the truth can be sly, and like the polar bear, take its audience by surprise. While some were enjoying the fjord at their own paddling pace, others, true to the nature of this photo safari, were in the little black boats with Stefan and company trying to get a few last shots of the bountiful scenery and fauna. So as Stefan eased his Zodiac within 50 feet or so of two wary bearded seals, the group was unaware that they were not the first to spot the two photogenic pinnipeds. A rather large, and apparently, hungry polar bear was stealthily swimming parallel to the boat and wasn’t keen on letting his meal get away because of these new camera-toting interlopers. Stefan saw it just as the bear dove under the surface and everyone was able to watch in awe as seconds later the bear exploded out of the water and on top of the seal and ice. The bearded seal is fast, however, and, more importantly for its survival, strong. It immediately began twisting rapidly towards the water pulling the white bear with it into the milky, glacial bay. Moments later, and much to everyone’s surprise, the bear came back out alone and empty-handed. After glaring at the stunned group and stomping its feet in disgust, the obviously disappointed bear meandered out of the fjord for new hunting grounds elsewhere.
Regrettably, we too are making our way to destinations elsewhere. As we depart the ship tomorrow for our various homeward itineraries, we’ll carry with us memories of some of nature’s largest (the graceful and sleek fin whale) and smallest (the hearty, yet elegant flowers of Koenigia islandica) wonders. And hopefully, we will also be able to reflect upon these experiences and lessons now behind us and look upon our world, and our photos, from a different perspective…to see not just the obvious images surrounding us, but also those hidden scenes that lie in the peripheries of the first glance.
