Hornsund, Spitsbergen
Yes, there is name confusion about Spitsbergen and Svalbard. Spitsbergen is the largest island; the other four islands are Edgeøya, Barentsøya, Nordaustlandet and Kvitøya, and all together they make up the archipelago of Svalbard.
We find the name Svalbard mentioned early on in Icelandic folklore, but we do not really know exactly where this area was located—in fact it may have referred to Greenland. As Wilhelm Barents spotted the high peaks at NW Spitsbergen in 1596, he actually was convinced that it was a part of Greenland.
In the morning we steamed south along the western side of Spitsbergen. The day was relaxing, but broken up by lectures and a kayak briefing.
On the western side, you find several deep and very protected fjords, and our afternoon was dedicated to the most southern of these, Hornsund. As usual, we make a very careful scan of the beach and surroundings with our high power telescopes before we make any landings.
One of the first things you see as you arrive at Longyearbyen airport is a large poster with the headline: “It Attacks Without Warning—Keep Distance.” Yes, polar bears roam this part of the world and every time we go ashore we have to take every precaution. We take this very seriously!
We have, over the years, made many landings at the bird cliff of Gnålodden, at Hornsund, well known for its spectacular beauty and huge numbers of breeding sea birds. The main inhabitants are thick-billed murre, black-legged kittiwakes and fulmars in tens of thousands.
But this day would soon become a very different day from all others! As the groups separated for walks lead by armed guides, and with our polar bear lookout posted high up on the hillside, we felt very safe.
Still, the Inuits have plenty of names for the white ruler of the Arctic, and one saying is that the bear can turn itself into ice. From now on, we know that the bear can turn itself into a rock!
Suddenly, from nowhere, we had a polar bear right on the beach and our guide at the former trapper’s cabin, Stefan, called over the radio: “Polar bear approaching the cabin!” Yes, now the warnings about bears showing up was unexpectedly real.
Suddenly the landing beach was a bustle of activity and the situation a thrilling once-in-a-lifetime experience for everyone. Our first instruction and reaction was of to get everybody at the landing and into the Zodiac fleet, but still we had to take into consideration how the bear would behave. Some of the groups were far away from the Zodiac landing and the staff prepared their defenses for a close approach by the bear.
The main concern now was to be certain that everyone was behind the armed staff and a safe distance from the bear. Fortunately, and because of everybody’s great cooperation, everything ended as a good story, which will live for many years to be told on dark winter’s nights or during recaps on future trips to Svalbard. Now everybody knows all too well how amazingly well a polar bear can walk up unseen. Keeping a safe distance will always be the key words. Some of the group including staff described the event as “heart pounding.” Adventure traveling at the beach at Gnålodden today will have a new definition!
As the bear continued its slow-paced walk over the beach and later up the cliffs, it was time for us to retreat to our Zodiacs. We felt it much more relaxed to follow the bear wandering along the beach from a Zodiac, now at a safer distance.
The ship had penetrated further into the fjord and our Captain had, as usual, brought her in deep water very close to the beach. Some of us were onboard as the polar bear came right up to the bow, while others saw the same from the waterside. What a view!
The polar bear, a youngster, gave us a “show” several times by playing, jumping and digging in the snow. Once he stopped, the sensitive nose had found something. In only a few seconds, the bear dug deep into the snow and found a leg bone, probably the remains of a reindeer. It was then time for us to leave this bear to its own affairs in the vast high Arctic.
Some of us continued deeper into the fjord by Zodiac to the glacier front, encountering some very tame bearded seals. The Zodiac could come almost within a few yards distance. The glacier itself with its ice landscapes of caves, pinnacles, and crevasses was also worth moments of meditation. Yes, this day had almost anything you can expect and for sure will be remembered!
Yes, there is name confusion about Spitsbergen and Svalbard. Spitsbergen is the largest island; the other four islands are Edgeøya, Barentsøya, Nordaustlandet and Kvitøya, and all together they make up the archipelago of Svalbard.
We find the name Svalbard mentioned early on in Icelandic folklore, but we do not really know exactly where this area was located—in fact it may have referred to Greenland. As Wilhelm Barents spotted the high peaks at NW Spitsbergen in 1596, he actually was convinced that it was a part of Greenland.
In the morning we steamed south along the western side of Spitsbergen. The day was relaxing, but broken up by lectures and a kayak briefing.
On the western side, you find several deep and very protected fjords, and our afternoon was dedicated to the most southern of these, Hornsund. As usual, we make a very careful scan of the beach and surroundings with our high power telescopes before we make any landings.
One of the first things you see as you arrive at Longyearbyen airport is a large poster with the headline: “It Attacks Without Warning—Keep Distance.” Yes, polar bears roam this part of the world and every time we go ashore we have to take every precaution. We take this very seriously!
We have, over the years, made many landings at the bird cliff of Gnålodden, at Hornsund, well known for its spectacular beauty and huge numbers of breeding sea birds. The main inhabitants are thick-billed murre, black-legged kittiwakes and fulmars in tens of thousands.
But this day would soon become a very different day from all others! As the groups separated for walks lead by armed guides, and with our polar bear lookout posted high up on the hillside, we felt very safe.
Still, the Inuits have plenty of names for the white ruler of the Arctic, and one saying is that the bear can turn itself into ice. From now on, we know that the bear can turn itself into a rock!
Suddenly, from nowhere, we had a polar bear right on the beach and our guide at the former trapper’s cabin, Stefan, called over the radio: “Polar bear approaching the cabin!” Yes, now the warnings about bears showing up was unexpectedly real.
Suddenly the landing beach was a bustle of activity and the situation a thrilling once-in-a-lifetime experience for everyone. Our first instruction and reaction was of to get everybody at the landing and into the Zodiac fleet, but still we had to take into consideration how the bear would behave. Some of the groups were far away from the Zodiac landing and the staff prepared their defenses for a close approach by the bear.
The main concern now was to be certain that everyone was behind the armed staff and a safe distance from the bear. Fortunately, and because of everybody’s great cooperation, everything ended as a good story, which will live for many years to be told on dark winter’s nights or during recaps on future trips to Svalbard. Now everybody knows all too well how amazingly well a polar bear can walk up unseen. Keeping a safe distance will always be the key words. Some of the group including staff described the event as “heart pounding.” Adventure traveling at the beach at Gnålodden today will have a new definition!
As the bear continued its slow-paced walk over the beach and later up the cliffs, it was time for us to retreat to our Zodiacs. We felt it much more relaxed to follow the bear wandering along the beach from a Zodiac, now at a safer distance.
The ship had penetrated further into the fjord and our Captain had, as usual, brought her in deep water very close to the beach. Some of us were onboard as the polar bear came right up to the bow, while others saw the same from the waterside. What a view!
The polar bear, a youngster, gave us a “show” several times by playing, jumping and digging in the snow. Once he stopped, the sensitive nose had found something. In only a few seconds, the bear dug deep into the snow and found a leg bone, probably the remains of a reindeer. It was then time for us to leave this bear to its own affairs in the vast high Arctic.
Some of us continued deeper into the fjord by Zodiac to the glacier front, encountering some very tame bearded seals. The Zodiac could come almost within a few yards distance. The glacier itself with its ice landscapes of caves, pinnacles, and crevasses was also worth moments of meditation. Yes, this day had almost anything you can expect and for sure will be remembered!
