Isabela and Fernandina Islands

I’m having a hard time putting into words what I have felt today. The western islands of Galápagos have always been special, and today was no exception. The morning was calm to begin with: storm petrels, Galápagos petrels, even a red-footed booby flew by. By the time we started our approach to the equator line, the pace was already picking up. Common dolphins appeared out of no-where and greeted the soon-to-be “shellbacks” with major leaps out of the water.

Kayaks and Zodiacs cruised the coastline of Punta Vicente Roca to the sound of large ocean swells against basaltic boulders and tuffstone cliffs. Snorkeling was outrageous. Marine turtles hovered in clear water, the best visibility we’ve had here in months. Galapagos penguins materialized in front of our faces. One group was so audacious and vivacious they twirled in front of our noses before we really knew what was happening. Maybe the shine of the camera housing looked like the yummy sardines nearby, but my finger got in the way (but unfortunately I have no scar to prove I was tasted).

The sands of Punta Espinosa in the afternoon were transformed. Female marine iguanas were battling for space. Nest holes were all over the place, sand flying behind the rumps and tails sticking out of deep excavations. The huge males, their job done, were sunning themselves elsewhere on the dark sand beaches and black lava flows a safe distance away from the nesting grounds.