Bartolome and Santiago Islands
After a unanimous vote last night, we were called to action at 6:00am to summit Bartolome as the morning sun burned off the last vestiges of evening clouds. With each of the 370 steps, the almost lunar landscape rewarded the hearty with spectacular aerial views of both sides of an enticing white sand beach, separated lush greenery and punctuated with the towering monolith known as Pinnacle rock. This is one of the most recognizable and breathtakingly scenic views in the Galápagos. We dwelled here for a time sufficient to justify the climb and then descended once again, taking another chance to admire the volcanic spatter cones, red-throated lava lizards and the few tenacious plants that managed to eke out a living in the arid soil.
Returning to the Islander, our first breakfast was consumed with great enthusiasm after the morning’s adventure and proved sufficient fuel for our morning charge to the beach, snorkels in hand. Breaking the surface of the water, a new world unfolded, as we came face to face with the underwater world of the Galápagos. Schools of yellow-fined, iridescent blue and glinting silver fish ebbed, darted and flowed above starfish, sponges and lurking rays. The Rosners came face-to-face with a playful sea lion that was only too happy to show off his underwater prowess. Three white-tipped reef sharks glided gracefully through the water, grace and power personified, seemingly uncaring of the humans floating only meters above. A few were surprised by darting penguins eagerly seeking out their mid-morning snack. Boarding Zodiacs (which we now call pangas), most were reluctant to leave, though the promise of lunch eventually won out.
In transit from Bartolome to Santiago, Danny Catt (aka. el Gato Guapo) gave us some tips on better travel photography, setting us up for what would prove to be another unbelievable afternoon. Arriving at the black sand beach of Santiago, the roar of the bull sea lion lets us know that we are only guests in this beautiful landscape, and should be on our best behaviour. Back in the water, we find a group of forty or more white-tipped reef sharks, keeping large schools of fish at bay in only a meter of water. We snorkel by thankfully unmolested, and as Ian Kay exits the water, a young sea lion follows behind him, much to Ian’s surprise. The Parkers spot a large ray, and Callie Archer reports barracuda. Hopping over the black sand in bare feet to change into our hiking boots, we join the trail on Santiago, walking past yellow-flowered muyuyo bushes, populated by Galápagos mockingbirds, Galápagos doves and Darwins finches. Reaching the shoreline, we find Galápagos Fur Seals (actually a Sea Lion – check the ears!) lounging in the ebbing sun beside what was to become the ubiquitous marine iguana. From a few isolated sightings, the rocks are soon covered with these fascinating creatures, sitting in tidal pools, on the rocks and on each other. In flurry of shutters, we try to take it all in and can only hope that we’ve been at least partly successful.
As the sun sinks on the sky, we return to the Islander, for fresh ceviche and drinks before heading to dinner, and then a few drinks before heading to bed, and being rocked to sleep on our way to Puerto Ayora.
After a unanimous vote last night, we were called to action at 6:00am to summit Bartolome as the morning sun burned off the last vestiges of evening clouds. With each of the 370 steps, the almost lunar landscape rewarded the hearty with spectacular aerial views of both sides of an enticing white sand beach, separated lush greenery and punctuated with the towering monolith known as Pinnacle rock. This is one of the most recognizable and breathtakingly scenic views in the Galápagos. We dwelled here for a time sufficient to justify the climb and then descended once again, taking another chance to admire the volcanic spatter cones, red-throated lava lizards and the few tenacious plants that managed to eke out a living in the arid soil.
Returning to the Islander, our first breakfast was consumed with great enthusiasm after the morning’s adventure and proved sufficient fuel for our morning charge to the beach, snorkels in hand. Breaking the surface of the water, a new world unfolded, as we came face to face with the underwater world of the Galápagos. Schools of yellow-fined, iridescent blue and glinting silver fish ebbed, darted and flowed above starfish, sponges and lurking rays. The Rosners came face-to-face with a playful sea lion that was only too happy to show off his underwater prowess. Three white-tipped reef sharks glided gracefully through the water, grace and power personified, seemingly uncaring of the humans floating only meters above. A few were surprised by darting penguins eagerly seeking out their mid-morning snack. Boarding Zodiacs (which we now call pangas), most were reluctant to leave, though the promise of lunch eventually won out.
In transit from Bartolome to Santiago, Danny Catt (aka. el Gato Guapo) gave us some tips on better travel photography, setting us up for what would prove to be another unbelievable afternoon. Arriving at the black sand beach of Santiago, the roar of the bull sea lion lets us know that we are only guests in this beautiful landscape, and should be on our best behaviour. Back in the water, we find a group of forty or more white-tipped reef sharks, keeping large schools of fish at bay in only a meter of water. We snorkel by thankfully unmolested, and as Ian Kay exits the water, a young sea lion follows behind him, much to Ian’s surprise. The Parkers spot a large ray, and Callie Archer reports barracuda. Hopping over the black sand in bare feet to change into our hiking boots, we join the trail on Santiago, walking past yellow-flowered muyuyo bushes, populated by Galápagos mockingbirds, Galápagos doves and Darwins finches. Reaching the shoreline, we find Galápagos Fur Seals (actually a Sea Lion – check the ears!) lounging in the ebbing sun beside what was to become the ubiquitous marine iguana. From a few isolated sightings, the rocks are soon covered with these fascinating creatures, sitting in tidal pools, on the rocks and on each other. In flurry of shutters, we try to take it all in and can only hope that we’ve been at least partly successful.
As the sun sinks on the sky, we return to the Islander, for fresh ceviche and drinks before heading to dinner, and then a few drinks before heading to bed, and being rocked to sleep on our way to Puerto Ayora.
