Bartolome & Santiago Islands

Today began early with a “rise and shine” wake-up call and a little song. to coax us out of our warm beds. We disembarked on a cement dock, hiked on a trail of volcanic cinders and ash, and then along a wooden boardwalk and stairs that took us 372 steps to the summit of Bartolome. On our way we found lava lizards and locust, and the naturalists pointed out lava tunnels, splatter and cinder cones. When we reached the top the sun came out and bathed the spectacular view in golden light. Recent, barren jet black lava flows surrounded and contrasted with older reddish cones, and the azure sea was offset by small golden and white crescent beaches bordered by green mangroves and thorn bushes. That 360 degree volcanic panorama was worth every breath of the climb to the summit!

We had a healthy appetite by the time we were lined up beside the bountiful breakfast buffet back on Islander; and we earned the meal, too. By 10:00 a.m. we were hiking over golden dunes and along a south facing sea turtle nesting beach. Ghost crabs scrambled across the sand, and one was feeding on a dead garden eel. Several white-tipped reef sharks swam slowly in the shallows just off the beach. Sea turtles had nesting recently and we observed their tracks and the body pits where they had tossed sand with their fore flippers to cover up the egg chambers where they had deposited many tens of eggs.

We swam and snorkeled from the landing beach. Schools of tropical fish, sea turtles, sea lions and even a penguin flying rapidly after fish among us in just two feet of water were some of the highlights. We were reluctant to leave the lovely golden beach.

After lunch and siesta, Adventure Canada’s photographer Mike Beedell spoke to us and showed images about “the art of seeing.” Meanwhile the ship had anchored off the coast at Puerto Egas. Our eager group of snorkelers were first on shore. Sea lions were resting on, and swimming along, the black sand beach. One huge male guarded his territory and did not let us swim anywhere near his “ladies.” We hiked on a dusty inland trail through dry vegetation and then beside the sea. We found our first fur seals –they are actually in the sea lion family - and many species of shore birds: ruddy turn stones, black bellied plovers, oyster catchers, and whimbrels to name a few. Marine iguanas were sprawled everywhere on the lava, catching the last rays of sun. And as the sun set behind the shield volcanoes of Isabela, and illuminated the westernmost island of Fernandina in its golden light, I think we all realized that this is going to be an absolutely marvelous week in “Las Islas Encntadas!”