Southern Isabela Island
Following our usual early morning wake up call and a light breakfast, we divided up into three groups to attack the slopes of Sierra Negra. After 40 teeth-rattling minutes, we arrived at the end of the road and entered the hiking phase of the adventure. We had heard that it might be hot on the rim, or cool and cloudy. What we did not anticipate was the dust, especially that generated by horses ridden by other “tours.” Nonetheless, we persevered uphill stopping only momentarily for an immature vermillion flycatcher and at last arrived to a clear and impressive overlook of the caldera. Since Sierra Negra had recently erupted on October 22, we were able to gaze on some of the newest crust on the planet! Charred vegetation, distant fumaroles and sulfur clouds were visible across the 7x10 kilometers diameter caldera (allegedly second in size only to Ngorogoro in Tanzania) with new lava flows from the recent eruption covering 1/3 of the floor. More hiking brought the “fast and furious” group to areas of fresh ash fall and a thin reflective carpet of Pele’s hair, a very unusual find.
The hike down was highlighted by nice cool awaiting Pilsners, at which point we descended back down the flank of Sierra Negra to Puerto Villamil. Reported sightings from the birding portion of the morning included several vermillion flycatchers, warbler finches, and a glimpse of a woodpecker finch.
Following repasts and siestas, we were off again to tour the Tortoise Breeding Center. It’s amazing to see the size differential between the freshly hatched youngsters and the lumbering adults we’ve viewed on the islands. What a great program they have evolved here to rear and release tortoises.
Unable to resist an invitation from the crew to engage in a friendly “endemic rules” volleyball match, we headed to the local court behind the police station. This proved to be a major challenge. What the energetic assemblage of Rock, Lynn, Nick, Mac, Steve, and Chard lacked in athletic stamina and finesse was certainly balanced out by clumsiness, miscommunication and unforced errors. The good news is that following two severe embarrassments at the hands of the crew, the 50’s plus club of “mutants” rallied to win one! The fans went wild. All in all much fun and hilarity and more than a few quizzical glances from the locals. Sand in the eyes, soreness in long unused muscles and banged knees were a minor price to pay. After all, says Bill, “that is why God created Advil™.”
Cold beers and seafood snacks at La Choza were in order before a night panga ride back to the Islander for a presentation before dinner from (temporarily) kidnapped members of the Friends of the Tortoise Club. They gave an impressive account of grass roots efforts to provide alternative forms of income for local fisherman and their wives and of the Tortoise Club which is working to teach the next generation the values of local natural history. I think we are all newly appreciative of the need for efforts at all levels to preserve this priceless global heritage.
During another excellent dinner, we were able to visit further with some of our guests. Those left with a shred of energy were allowed to watch the second showing of the Mutual of Omaha’s SOA movie featuring our very own Dr. Fowler…Zzzzzzz.
Following our usual early morning wake up call and a light breakfast, we divided up into three groups to attack the slopes of Sierra Negra. After 40 teeth-rattling minutes, we arrived at the end of the road and entered the hiking phase of the adventure. We had heard that it might be hot on the rim, or cool and cloudy. What we did not anticipate was the dust, especially that generated by horses ridden by other “tours.” Nonetheless, we persevered uphill stopping only momentarily for an immature vermillion flycatcher and at last arrived to a clear and impressive overlook of the caldera. Since Sierra Negra had recently erupted on October 22, we were able to gaze on some of the newest crust on the planet! Charred vegetation, distant fumaroles and sulfur clouds were visible across the 7x10 kilometers diameter caldera (allegedly second in size only to Ngorogoro in Tanzania) with new lava flows from the recent eruption covering 1/3 of the floor. More hiking brought the “fast and furious” group to areas of fresh ash fall and a thin reflective carpet of Pele’s hair, a very unusual find.
The hike down was highlighted by nice cool awaiting Pilsners, at which point we descended back down the flank of Sierra Negra to Puerto Villamil. Reported sightings from the birding portion of the morning included several vermillion flycatchers, warbler finches, and a glimpse of a woodpecker finch.
Following repasts and siestas, we were off again to tour the Tortoise Breeding Center. It’s amazing to see the size differential between the freshly hatched youngsters and the lumbering adults we’ve viewed on the islands. What a great program they have evolved here to rear and release tortoises.
Unable to resist an invitation from the crew to engage in a friendly “endemic rules” volleyball match, we headed to the local court behind the police station. This proved to be a major challenge. What the energetic assemblage of Rock, Lynn, Nick, Mac, Steve, and Chard lacked in athletic stamina and finesse was certainly balanced out by clumsiness, miscommunication and unforced errors. The good news is that following two severe embarrassments at the hands of the crew, the 50’s plus club of “mutants” rallied to win one! The fans went wild. All in all much fun and hilarity and more than a few quizzical glances from the locals. Sand in the eyes, soreness in long unused muscles and banged knees were a minor price to pay. After all, says Bill, “that is why God created Advil™.”
Cold beers and seafood snacks at La Choza were in order before a night panga ride back to the Islander for a presentation before dinner from (temporarily) kidnapped members of the Friends of the Tortoise Club. They gave an impressive account of grass roots efforts to provide alternative forms of income for local fisherman and their wives and of the Tortoise Club which is working to teach the next generation the values of local natural history. I think we are all newly appreciative of the need for efforts at all levels to preserve this priceless global heritage.
During another excellent dinner, we were able to visit further with some of our guests. Those left with a shred of energy were allowed to watch the second showing of the Mutual of Omaha’s SOA movie featuring our very own Dr. Fowler…Zzzzzzz.
