Culloden, Clava Cairns & Loch Ness
The first day of our Scottish expedition began after breakfast when we boarded our coaches for the short trip through the City of Inverness and south out to the Culloden Battlefield. Because time was on our side, the coach driver took us along the banks of the River Ness to view the very beautiful areas of the city that many visitors and coach-tours overlook and never see. This city, known as the “Capital of the Highlands” has a soft charm all of its own.
On the drive out to Culloden, our historian Steve, filled out much of the background information concerning the Jacobites and this historic site, the location of the last battle ever fought on British soil. In 1746, when government troops under the command of the Duke of Cumberland engaged the Highland clansmen under the charge of Bonnie Prince Charlie, a battle ensued that destroyed the Highland forces and, subsequently, the ancient Highland way of life. As we left, a slight rain started to fall that added an atmospheric air to this sad place.
A drive of some ten minutes took us a short distance in terms of miles but a very long way in terms of years, some 4,000 years to be exact! At a place called Clava we visited three megalithic structures known collectively as the “Clava Cairns.” Despite having been robbed over the centuries for rock to build farm walls, roads, etc. there is still enough remaining of these Bronze Age burial chambers to give a good impression of just how massive and impressive they must have looked following completion. Two of the mounds have an entrance passage that is oriented to the setting of the sun on the occasion of the Winter Solstice, indicating that this annual solar event was of importance to the megalith builders and also indicating that the chambers were used as more than just the burial site of some important king, queen or other noted persons.
During lunch, back on board, the engines were fired-up, the lines cast off and we started the real cruise part of the expedition. The first hours or so was spent slowly meandering through the winding Caledonian Canal until we entered into the 23 mile long stretch of fresh water known as Loch Ness. And, no, despite many keen eyes on deck we did not spot Loch Ness’s most famous inhabitant ‘Nessie.’
We did, however, have wonderful views of Urquhart Castle, now ruined, one-time home of the Clan Grant and today still an impressive site to see, especially from the water level, the way most visitors would have seen it during its heyday from the 13th century up until 1692 when it was destroyed to prevent it falling into the hands of the early Jacobite rebels.
By late afternoon we were moored alongside in the picturesque Highland village of Fort Augustus where we had time for a stroll ashore before dinner. We would remain here overnight and in the morning begin the ascent of the series of locks known as “Neptune’s Staircase” that neatly bisect the village in half. Despite being the first day, we have already covered much ground and are starting to get a sense of what delights lie ahead for the rest of our voyage.
