We left the South Shetland Islands in the evening, and after a quiet crossing of the Bransfield Strait, we woke in the sheltered waters of the Antarctic Peninsula’s inside passage with mountains towering on both sides of the ship and moody skies above. Shafts of sunlight broke through the cloud in places, illuminating the cliffs and shimmering on the glaciers and adding to the depth and drama of the landscape, a treat to the many early risers out on deck with their cameras.
Our first stop that morning was Cuverville, one of the many islands huddled close to the peninsula, where some of the guests set off on a hike up the steep flanks of the island to get a breathtaking view of the bay and mountains surrounding us. Others remained closer to shore and got to know the bustling colony of gentoo penguins that make Cuverville Island their home. Later we made an excursion to Ronge Island, only a short hop by Zodiac, to see the chinstrap penguins who lived there and along the way investigating the exquisitely sculpted icebergs in the bay. And then it was time once again to wind our way further south, through the 64th parallel to the colourful old British base at Port Lockroy.
Originally established as a top secret listening post during World War II, amidst (unfounded) fears the German navy might be using the Antarctic Peninsula as a hide-out, and later used as a scientific base until 1962, Port Lockroy has since been beautifully restored and turned into a museum – complete with gift shop and post office. Its sheltered harbour, surrounded by glaciers and the lofty peaks of the Seven Sisters, makes it a lovely spot for kayaking and so the afternoon was spent paddling the clear waters and browsing through the museum and sending home postcards which will bear the intriguing British Antarctic Territories postmark. Later we invited the three British station hands out to the ship, for a hot shower and dinner, and then spent a quiet night at anchor in a cove nearby.
