Stanley, Falkland Islands
On this, the 19th day of our epic voyage through the Southern Ocean, we found ourselves in an unusual position: tied up alongside and outside an actual town. We arrived into Stanley, the capital of the Falklands archipelago, shortly after breakfast and were immediately reminded of just how isolated and removed we have been over the past few weeks. Not only was this our first time at dock since leaving Ushuaia, it was also the first time we have seen any vehicles, houses, or any other real semblance of civilization. And though Stanley is hardly a metropolis by any stretch of the imagination, many of us were only too happy to amble along level, guano-free sidewalks, check in with loved ones via the telephone or internet, and even grab a bite to eat at one of the numerous local pubs. In a way, Stanley and the Falklands are a perfect transition for us as we prepare to rejoin the rank and file in the coming weeks back wherever we all make our homes.
While certainly more urban than any of the places we’ve visited in our journey, the Falklands are still very much off the beaten path and indeed a long way from just about everywhere. Though only a few hundred miles from Argentina, the islands feel much more removed from the South American continent because of the historically-strained relations with their nearest neighbor. And as a result, the inhabitants are much more reliant on Santiago, Chile (some 1,400 miles and a once-weekly flight away) and of course, England, an entire hemisphere to the north. So, at times the islands must indeed seem a lonely and isolated place, but during the summer months, you could argue that they are more connected to other parts of the world than most rural communities in Europe and the United States. For it is during this time, that visitors from all over the world come for a first-hand look at the Falklands’ rugged charms and bountiful wildlife. Most, like us, come by way of cruise ship, an industry that has recently proven to be a real boon to the local economy. And while it would be near-impossible to visit the entire archipelago’s 700-plus islands, almost every visiting vessel will drop anchor in Stanley, just as we did today before heading off to explore some of the other islands tomorrow.
Stanley is home to close to seventy percent of the Falkland’s 3,000 inhabitants and serves as a necessary base of operations and supplies for the entire archipelago. We used our day in port to take in the local sights, learn a bit more of the islands’ history, and hear the locals’ perspectives on their fairly unique way-of-life. We enjoyed a morning excursion into and about Stanley itself; taking in the local scene with our very own Falkland guides. We hit all the highlights, such as the beautiful and somewhat out of place cathedral with its unique whale-bone “gazebo” and the extraordinarily informative local museum, before spending a bit of time mixing with the locals in their shops and pubs. By early afternoon, we were ready to explore the areas surrounding Stanley. While some of us wanted to get back in touch with nature by strolling out to a small reserve, others opted to learn a bit more about how the everyday lives of the islanders are affected by their relative isolation and less than ideal climate. So we spent some time at Stanley Growers, a local hydroponics farm that not only supplies an array of fresh produce to the Falkland populace, but also passing ships like ours.
Hydroponics is the science of soil-less agriculture, and without it, the Falklands would be almost entirely at the mercy of the air and shipping industry for their fruits and vegetables. The soil on the islands is less than desirable for most crops outside of potatoes and cabbage, but the indoor “water-farm” manages to produce a fantastic variety of plants that would otherwise succumb to the normally harsh conditions of the outside world. As Gillian had told us only yesterday, “if you don’t like the weather here in the Falklands, just wait 15 minutes ‘cause it will change!” She was, of course, speaking from her wealth of experience here in the archipelago, but we didn’t have to wait long for the conditions to verify her claims. Only the strong wind remained constant, as the sun and rain seemed to wrestle for supremacy throughout the afternoon. Even so, the alternating gray and blue skies offered the appreciative observer some dramatic backdrops for the true beauty of the Falklands, the land itself, and one that we hope to gain even further appreciation for as we explore some of the archipelago’s wildest locales over the coming days.
On this, the 19th day of our epic voyage through the Southern Ocean, we found ourselves in an unusual position: tied up alongside and outside an actual town. We arrived into Stanley, the capital of the Falklands archipelago, shortly after breakfast and were immediately reminded of just how isolated and removed we have been over the past few weeks. Not only was this our first time at dock since leaving Ushuaia, it was also the first time we have seen any vehicles, houses, or any other real semblance of civilization. And though Stanley is hardly a metropolis by any stretch of the imagination, many of us were only too happy to amble along level, guano-free sidewalks, check in with loved ones via the telephone or internet, and even grab a bite to eat at one of the numerous local pubs. In a way, Stanley and the Falklands are a perfect transition for us as we prepare to rejoin the rank and file in the coming weeks back wherever we all make our homes.
While certainly more urban than any of the places we’ve visited in our journey, the Falklands are still very much off the beaten path and indeed a long way from just about everywhere. Though only a few hundred miles from Argentina, the islands feel much more removed from the South American continent because of the historically-strained relations with their nearest neighbor. And as a result, the inhabitants are much more reliant on Santiago, Chile (some 1,400 miles and a once-weekly flight away) and of course, England, an entire hemisphere to the north. So, at times the islands must indeed seem a lonely and isolated place, but during the summer months, you could argue that they are more connected to other parts of the world than most rural communities in Europe and the United States. For it is during this time, that visitors from all over the world come for a first-hand look at the Falklands’ rugged charms and bountiful wildlife. Most, like us, come by way of cruise ship, an industry that has recently proven to be a real boon to the local economy. And while it would be near-impossible to visit the entire archipelago’s 700-plus islands, almost every visiting vessel will drop anchor in Stanley, just as we did today before heading off to explore some of the other islands tomorrow.
Stanley is home to close to seventy percent of the Falkland’s 3,000 inhabitants and serves as a necessary base of operations and supplies for the entire archipelago. We used our day in port to take in the local sights, learn a bit more of the islands’ history, and hear the locals’ perspectives on their fairly unique way-of-life. We enjoyed a morning excursion into and about Stanley itself; taking in the local scene with our very own Falkland guides. We hit all the highlights, such as the beautiful and somewhat out of place cathedral with its unique whale-bone “gazebo” and the extraordinarily informative local museum, before spending a bit of time mixing with the locals in their shops and pubs. By early afternoon, we were ready to explore the areas surrounding Stanley. While some of us wanted to get back in touch with nature by strolling out to a small reserve, others opted to learn a bit more about how the everyday lives of the islanders are affected by their relative isolation and less than ideal climate. So we spent some time at Stanley Growers, a local hydroponics farm that not only supplies an array of fresh produce to the Falkland populace, but also passing ships like ours.
Hydroponics is the science of soil-less agriculture, and without it, the Falklands would be almost entirely at the mercy of the air and shipping industry for their fruits and vegetables. The soil on the islands is less than desirable for most crops outside of potatoes and cabbage, but the indoor “water-farm” manages to produce a fantastic variety of plants that would otherwise succumb to the normally harsh conditions of the outside world. As Gillian had told us only yesterday, “if you don’t like the weather here in the Falklands, just wait 15 minutes ‘cause it will change!” She was, of course, speaking from her wealth of experience here in the archipelago, but we didn’t have to wait long for the conditions to verify her claims. Only the strong wind remained constant, as the sun and rain seemed to wrestle for supremacy throughout the afternoon. Even so, the alternating gray and blue skies offered the appreciative observer some dramatic backdrops for the true beauty of the Falklands, the land itself, and one that we hope to gain even further appreciation for as we explore some of the archipelago’s wildest locales over the coming days.
