Brown Bluff, The Weddell Sea, Paulet Island

By questioning, we learn. And by pushing those questions further, we either uncover a wealth of knowledge, or we may find questions we as yet do not have the answers to. Questioning what we see and experience is a path to discovery, worlds unfold as we observe, reflect and query. There are some questions I will sidestep with all the skill and grace of Fred Astair on a ballroom floor. “Is this trip better than average?” Average? We’re in Antarctica and “average” is not in the Antarctic dictionary. This is the place where you run out of superlatives moments after arrival.

Our morning was spent at Brown Bluff, a landing on the Continent of Antarctica. We waddled like the penguins themselves, arms outstretched for balance as we trod along the cobbled beach in our as yet unfamiliar boots. Oh, the cuteness that surrounded us. Crèches of downy gentoo and Adélie chicks were scattered everywhere. Mohawk "hairstyles" prevailed with many chicks in the process of molting from fluffy juvenile to tidy adult plumage. The patchwork of their transitioning coats gave an appearance as though they had an encounter with a pair of renegade hair clippers. Feeding chases livened up the periphery of the colony as adults pursued by these inverted feather pillows careened around the cobbles.

For the afternoon, we pressed into the Weddell Sea. We passed icebergs adorned with sprinkles of Adélie penguins while wending out way towards Paulet Island. If you look in our Antarctic dictionary for the definition of "sensory overload," it will list Paulet Island. Hundreds of thousands of breeding Adélie penguins inhabit Paulet and the chicks were crèched here as they were at Brown Bluff. During walks we kept a watchful eye towards and gave a wide berth to several Antarctic fur seals hauled out on the stony beach. Here too were stranded ice bergs lining the shore, which made picturesque platforms for the incoming penguins and half a dozen or so snoozing Weddell seals. Blue-eyed shags came careening in for a landing over our heads as we walked the thin line between the sea and the breeding colonies. We were enveloped by the aroma of the island as well, which took a bit of scrubbing to rid ourselves of once we were back aboard ship.

If asked for a comparison of this day to prior journeys, my answer would be simple. This day was unique. Your experience, perspective, mixture of weather, wildlife, planetary alignment and happenstance will never occur in this combination again. When you pause and begin your personal reflections upon this day in Antarctica, its incomparable qualities will unfold to your minds eye. This is a once in a lifetime experience, one filled with questions, answers, and questions unanswered, which simply leaves room for more exploration.