South of the Antarctic Circle, Detaille Island
There is a strange phenomenon that occurs below the 60th parallel in the Southern Hemisphere. Some have described it as a virus, others a disease. Most commonly, it’s known as a fever. No matter how one chooses to explain it, many would agree that it is a very contagious ailment. The infection spreads like wildfire. It’s incurable. It breeds obsession. And it leaves one eternally hungry.
The early Antarctic explorers had it, and the evidence has been left behind in the form of various sites, huts, and stations spread all throughout the continent. Today we visited one of those sites on Detaille Island, located at 66¢ª51.9”S. “Base W” was a British Research Base that operated for only 3 years, closing in 1959. Virtually abandoned, the base appears as though it was left just the day before. Telegrams could be found on a bunk in one room, and photo paper left in another. Tins of food were scattered throughout, boots were still sitting on shelves, and coats still hanging on their racks. Exploring this site allowed us to understand what their lives were like, and the things that were important to them.
We celebrated today. There was much to celebrate. We awoke to a prompting to come out on deck and witness humpback whales breaching ahead of the ship. We were met by a cloudless blue sky that was reflecting off an ocean of glass. The captain carefully navigated the ship through a maze of icebergs, some of which stood taller than the bridge. As the ship crossed the Antarctic Circle, she blasted her horn and we raised our glasses of champagne to toast the event. We explored in zodiacs through a field of grounded icebergs the size of office buildings. We watched crabeater seals glide through water made turquoise by the ice beneath, and snow petrels glide through the air as skuas passed overhead. And as the sun slid from our view, the ice-capped mountains glowed pink under the rising moon.
Some of us today have been infected with “Antarctic Fever” for the first time. For others, today was a testament to our current affliction. It is because of days like today that the fever exists. The eternal hunger it leaves is one of desire to return. The desire never ends. As far as we know, this is the last time the National Geographic Endeavour will sail below the Antarctic Circle. I could not have imagined a better day for her last one below 66¢ª33’S. I like to imagine that this ship is infected and may, in fact, one day return. Either way, today we celebrated a sickness that I hope will never be cured, for me.
To see footage from this day, please click here.
