Isabela & Fernandina Islands
It is Day Four of our expedition in the Galápagos Islands, and the National Geographic Endeavour has brought us to the most isolated región of this archipelago: Isabela and Fernandina islands, located in the West.
Isabela comprises half of the landmass of the Enchanted Islands, and its northern part remains pretty untouched. Located directly on the upwelling areas, this places thrives with life, both on land and at sea. A sunny morning awaited us, and happily we searched the ocean looking for life. At Roca Redonda, the tip of a gigantic submerged volcano north of Isabela, we found a pod of dolphins feeding, as well as various species of marine birds.
Northern Isabela is crossed by the equator line, so we were briefly visited by King Neptune, and in a short ceremony were granted permission by him to re-enter the southern seas! Afterwards, we dropped anchor at Punta Vicente Roca, one of the most dramatic and spectacular stretches of coast in the Galápagos. Backing Volcan Ecuador, along these vertical cliffs we found many endemic and native species of this area, amongst them the bizarre flightless cormorants with its minute wings, several Galápagos penguins and dozens of Pacific green sea turtles resting or feeding by the coast.
One species that is nowhere else to be seen is the Mola mola or ocean sunfish, quite numerous today. Today, the weather conditions were on our side, with sunny skies, and calm and clear waters. Some of our guests decided to snorkel along this stunning coast, which turned out to be an unforgettable experience. All along, snorkelers were accompanied by sea turtles, flightless cormorants, and Galápagos sea lions. What a place!
In the afternoon, and after a delicious typical Ecuadorian lunch on board the National Geographic Endeavour, we headed for the youngest and most pristine island of the Galápagos: Fernandina. This is basically one shield volcano, a barren island covered in young, black lava fields. Upon approaching Punta Espinosa, the only visitor’s site on this island, it seemed as if we were going to set foot on a desolated place. Nevertheless, immediately upon landing, we encoutered an explosión of life.
Fernandina probably holds a record number of endemic marine iguanas. As many as 2000 individuals may be found in every kilometer of its coastline. “Flows” of marine iguanas basked in the sun on this rocky shore, absorbing the last warm rays before sunset. We also encountered some inmature Galápagos hawks along the trail, which were in the process of learning which prey to take for a meal.
The local population of Galápagos sea lions was at its peak breeding time today, so we could observe some interaction between quarreling males as well as very young pups being nursed by their loyal mothers. In the distance, the shield volcanoes of Isabela Island stood like warriors protecting this fragile environment. We were far away from civilization, and this afternoon we definitely felt like we had leapt back into prehistoric times, into a place dominated by reptiles and birds.
