Isla Santa Cruz
Today was a departure from visiting wild islands. We arrived at the pleasant Puerto Ayora on Isla Santa Cruz, home to about 20,000 human inhabitants and the famous Charles Darwin Research Station and headquarters for the Galápagos National Park. At the station, we learned about ecological restoration projects including a land iguana breeding program and their giant tortoise breeding program. Among their captive tortoises was centenarian Diego who was apparently still young in heart (and body) for he has fathered more than 1,600 offspring. Not bad for an old guy.
From the Darwin Station, we strolled back to the main part of town ducking into several very nice gift shops displaying lovely works from Ecuador. At the fish market, a sea lion sat patiently, like a trained dog, waiting for fishy treats. Pelicans tried to nose (or is it beak or bill?) their way in to grab a tasty morsel.
From town, most of us boarded buses for the drive up to a highland restaurant called “Altair.” A few energetic folks rode bicycles and a couple guests walked the last mile or two to this delightful, secluded home and lodge. As we arrived, we were welcomed with a refreshing, fruit drink and invited to look around and relax. Chicken legs and breasts sizzled on a large grill while cooks in the kitchen put the final touches on a delicious lunch.
Following dessert, we had several options. I, of course, chose the “see it all” one. We drove higher on the island. Reaching about 2,000 feet above sea level, we entered the clouds and a strange forest of epiphyte-laden endemic Scalesia trees. The bus parked in the drifting fog and we walked to edge of a huge pit, known as Los Gemelos craters, a collapsed volcanic feature. It was a strange place especially in the gray mist.
Then it was time to descend a thousand feet (by bus) to a farm in the middle of a tortoise migration route. Here we found the great beasts “in the wild” and if approached slowly proved to be fabulous photo subjects.
Running low on camera flash card space and energy (the camera's battery and our own), it was time to head back to National Geographic Endeavour. Back on board, we heard from a representative from the Charles Darwin Research Station about the challenges of maintaining the naturalness of the islands while still allowing visitation. Finally after dinner, for those who could still stay awake after a very full day, local musicians and dancers entertained us.
