Genovesa Island

The early morning light gives us a good opportunity to see the walls of the crater that collapsed a few million years ago … the very center of a caldera that forms Genovesa Island. Located in the northernmost part of the archipelago, quite distant from any of the central islands, this particular place is somehow extremely interesting—isolation has been the key here for seabirds and they are the most numerous inhabitants of the place. Land reptiles, on the other hand, have not made it here yet, leaving ecological niches still open.

Swallow-tailed gulls, Nazca boobies and the colorful red-footed boobies, together with the contrasting landscape, give this place a special kind of atmosphere. The white coralline beach and the red mangroves are the nesting place for red-footed boobies. Minor frigatebird males today are into responsibly fathering their chicks; a few bachelors are displaying their half-inflated pouches to females that don’t seem to be particularly interested in them.

Prince Philip’s Steps and its lava plateaus that have been conquered by Palo Santo trees is the nesting territory for more boobies. As we head for the walk in the open area we find ourselves surrounded again by lava flows, which in this case are the territory of thousands of storm petrels that are covering the sky. At first glimpse they look like those clouds of mosquitos that are normally found in jungle areas; it is incredible to see how much activity can be found in this bizarre, distant place. As the petrels come here to nest, their predator, the short-eared owl, quietly waits for them in the open fields, looking for the perfect time to attack.

The images of today, we are sure, will remain in our heads for the rest of our lives; what a special way to end our expedition around this enchanted archipelago; we are positive the islands will never leave us…