Shetland Islands
In our travels, we passed quickly from Anglo-Saxon England to the Celtic lands of Cornwall, Ireland and Scotland. Today, in the Shetland Islands, we explored an area most heavily influenced by a third culture, that of Scandinavia. We left Lerwick by streets named for a covey of Norwegian kings, and passed by this, that and the other "-wick", the suffix being the Norse word for "cove". Just outside of town, we examined a broch, an example of Shetland's early culture. These circular forts are far more sophisticated than they appear at first glance, having twin concentric walls methodically joined, and internal staircases connecting multiple floors. The familiarized eye found brochs scattered around the Shetlands with surprising regularity.
From the broch, the archaeologically-oriented groups headed for Jarlshof, where Bronze Age, Iron Age, Pictish, Norse and Medieval construction intermingles in fascinating, if confusing layers.
Those interested in natural history traveled to a marsh where nested Whooper swans. These birds normally summer in the interior of Scandinavia, a biological connection that echoes the cultural. We then continued to Sumburgh Head. Its blustery cliffs are home to puffins, fulmars and guillemots. Having had superb experiences with seabirds, many were more excited at the prospect of seeing Shetland's endemic wren. The tiny bird appeared, twittering obligingly. Though wrens are diminutive in stature, they tower in personality. The islands' famous ponies are similarly endowed. Shaggy and unkempt, they have a scrappy charm. Together, these creatures illustrate a "law" of island biogeography - big animals become small, and small animals become large. Shetland's wrens are larger than those of the mainland because they are freed from the competition and predation that control their relations. Ponies are small because, during harsh winters under limiting insular conditions, smaller ponies are more likely to survive.
Our oceanic journey to Bergen was enlivened not only by lectures, but by a sudden visit of the British Coast Guard. While we were underway, a bright orange helicopter approached, hovered menacingly over the ship, and disgorged a mariner in navy blue togs and a yellow helmet. Dangling like a bumblebee on a spider's thread, he touched down by our swimming pool, exchanged a few pleasantries, and then was whisked away by his returning whirlybird.
Whilst traveling the British Isles, we have observed cultural transition through space and time, and cultural and natural history's interdigitation. Our visit to Shetland has been an appropriate summation of, and conclusion to our voyage.
In our travels, we passed quickly from Anglo-Saxon England to the Celtic lands of Cornwall, Ireland and Scotland. Today, in the Shetland Islands, we explored an area most heavily influenced by a third culture, that of Scandinavia. We left Lerwick by streets named for a covey of Norwegian kings, and passed by this, that and the other "-wick", the suffix being the Norse word for "cove". Just outside of town, we examined a broch, an example of Shetland's early culture. These circular forts are far more sophisticated than they appear at first glance, having twin concentric walls methodically joined, and internal staircases connecting multiple floors. The familiarized eye found brochs scattered around the Shetlands with surprising regularity.
From the broch, the archaeologically-oriented groups headed for Jarlshof, where Bronze Age, Iron Age, Pictish, Norse and Medieval construction intermingles in fascinating, if confusing layers.
Those interested in natural history traveled to a marsh where nested Whooper swans. These birds normally summer in the interior of Scandinavia, a biological connection that echoes the cultural. We then continued to Sumburgh Head. Its blustery cliffs are home to puffins, fulmars and guillemots. Having had superb experiences with seabirds, many were more excited at the prospect of seeing Shetland's endemic wren. The tiny bird appeared, twittering obligingly. Though wrens are diminutive in stature, they tower in personality. The islands' famous ponies are similarly endowed. Shaggy and unkempt, they have a scrappy charm. Together, these creatures illustrate a "law" of island biogeography - big animals become small, and small animals become large. Shetland's wrens are larger than those of the mainland because they are freed from the competition and predation that control their relations. Ponies are small because, during harsh winters under limiting insular conditions, smaller ponies are more likely to survive.
Our oceanic journey to Bergen was enlivened not only by lectures, but by a sudden visit of the British Coast Guard. While we were underway, a bright orange helicopter approached, hovered menacingly over the ship, and disgorged a mariner in navy blue togs and a yellow helmet. Dangling like a bumblebee on a spider's thread, he touched down by our swimming pool, exchanged a few pleasantries, and then was whisked away by his returning whirlybird.
Whilst traveling the British Isles, we have observed cultural transition through space and time, and cultural and natural history's interdigitation. Our visit to Shetland has been an appropriate summation of, and conclusion to our voyage.
