Ideal Cove & Petersburg Alaska

Late last night the National Geographic Sea Lion left her anchorage in Chapin Bay heading south in Frederick Sound making her way towards our morning destination of Ideal Cove. This small, protected bay is located on Mitkof Island in the southern end of Frederick Sound and would be our most southerly point during our exploration of Southeast Alaska’s wilderness.

During breakfast our expedition leader made her usual announcements about our morning’s activities. There would be several levels of hikes offered, and shortly after breakfast we assembled on the aft 200 deck ready to go ashore and spend two hours, wandering on a well maintained boardwalk. A faster group of walkers balanced the single plank, netted walkway well, making their way 4 1/2 miles through a dense Sitka spruce and western hemlock forest. Medium hikes and short hikes were offered, all heading into a beautiful section of coastal temperate rainforest offering up the usual residents of many ferns, lichens, bright yellow skunk cabbage in full bloom against a backdrop of glowing spring leaves in bright chartreuse green! Even in the dense forests of the north the colors of green that grace the land in spring are beyond belief! Our week had been filled with some of the first warm days of the season, and the intense growth that the northern forest experiences was something to behold. As we move seasonally towards the longest day of the year in June, daylight in Southeast Alaska consumes 19 hours of each day. All around us we could see plants unwinding from the moss covered forest floor, reaching for the light, working towards completing another season’s growth. False lily of the valley, twisted stalk, the flowers of gold thread, and for the shear delight of many the enormous flowers of the Alpine white marsh-marigold. Commonly found blooming in wet meadows, and along stream-banks, this particular day our hike had many places where these flowers decorated our path. Time flew past, and all too soon it was time to return to our waiting Zodiacs, and the National Geographic Sea Lion, continuing our day’s travels around Mitkof Island.

During lunch, our vessel headed north along the eastern side of Mitkof Island making good speed towards Petersburg, where we would be spending the afternoon. Our first town visit since our arrival in Southeast Alaska, Petersburg was a wonderful stop and an opportunity to visit a town, and some of the full time Alaskan residents. Settled by Peter Buschmann in 1891, the town remains a well known Norwegian community. By 1900 the Icy Straits Packing Company, with Buschmann as manager, had put a sawmill, wharf, warehouses, bunkhouse, and a store, as well as packed 32,750 cases of salmon. The fishermen brought in salmon for the cannery in the summer and fall and went after halibut in the winter, all creating a permanent and economically sound community. As the National Geographic Sea Lion pulled into the main harbor, the Sons of Norway Hall was visible at the far end of the town’s boardwalk. The main harbor was filled with a variety of fishing boats and it was obvious that fishing was an important economic component of Petersburg, bringing in an estimated $22 million a year.

For the remainder of the afternoon there were many opportunities to stroll through town, take a bike ride, have a nice coffee, do a little shopping, and for some of us it was a chance to spend a little time speaking with local residents and most especially their dogs, who appeared to definitely be members of this small community. Each dog we approached lifted its paw with the expectation of human contact; one of the stars waited patiently outside the Laundromat, a very friendly expression along with the customary extended paw.

Our afternoon in Petersburg brought a special delivery to the National Geographic Sea Lion. As our dinner of king crab was being served the National Geographic Sea Lion prepared for departure from Petersburg and headed out into Frederick Sound for a calm evening’s cruise under great conditions for a peaceful journey towards tomorrow’s destination.