Paranagua, Brazil The Southern Cross was still sparkling high in the sky when the wake up call came this morning for a pre-dawn breakfast and an early start to a big day in the field. A pod of Tucuxi dolphins accompanied the ship into Paranagua where we docked just after sunrise. By seven o’clock, we were all ashore on our last full day of exploring Brazil.

About half the group headed inland, taking the bus three thousand feet up to Curitiba where we caught a train for the scenic ride through the rain-forested hills, over high trestle bridges and tunnels carved in the rock to reach Morretes. The ride was more moody than scenic, with a light rain settling in and swathing the treetops in mist. The weather cleared by the time we reached Morretes, though, and the picturesque little town was drenched in sunshine. We walked the streets, taking in the colourful Portuguese colonial architecture, church and the cobbled walkways along the river that runs through the town, then ate lunch at a restaurant overlooking the river.

Then it was back to Paranagua and a relaxed hour or so browsing along its waterfront with its faded old buildings in ochre, green and pink stucco, and colourful markets before heading back to the ship.

The other half of the group set off for a day’s hiking in the Salto Moralta rainforest, leaving from the ship on a small boat that took them across the bay to Guanaquecaba. From there it was an adventurous ride up a muddy jungle track to a trailhead, and the start of the hike into the rainforest to a hundred-foot-high cascading waterfall. The waterfall was particularly lively and the jungles lush and green having been well watered by sixteen consecutive days of rain – and today was no exception, the rains and dripping leaves creating a sense of place and adventure. After the hike, all enjoyed a seafood buffet back in town and then returned to the ship.

After the early start and the full day, it was an early evening for all but the crew, who cast off lines and began the two-day sea voyage down the coast to Montevideo, Uruguay.