Bodaluna Island, Laughlan Group, Papua New Guinea
We arrived in Papua New Guinea this Sunday morning! While we were officially clearing immigration and quarantine, we heard a powerpoint lecture on “Wallace’s Line: An explanation of the curious distribution of lifeforms in the Australasian Biogeographic Zone.” The talk explored how geology, biology and climate have interacted in deep time to produce two distinct yet proximal assemblages of mammals: marsupials and primates. Exploring the austral end with charismatic megafauna natural history anecdotes concerning tree kangaroos, wallabys, cuscus, casowarrie. Personality-wise we explored the remarkable story of Alfred Wallace and his discoveries including the theory of natural selection.
Afternoon. Our first PNG island expedition stop! The Budi Budi Islands! Finally! So many of us were eager to visit these extremely remote islands having heard about the Kula Trade and as well as the reputation for remarkable wood carvings. Upon landing on Bodaluna Island we all were carried to the church by the sweet, melodic voices of men and women singing earnestly accompanied by a couple guitarists. The men and women attendees separately sand-seated. The thatch was thick and long and wide and ever so high! Noticing lashing was not employed, we learned that the structure had been built hurriedly following the church’s total destruction in last year’s cyclone.
The low lying island begged for a walking exploration. We were encouraged to walk solo or in small groups about the island until dusk. Our travelers including cone shell, orchid, sailing, cooking enthusiasts and the combination of low tide with an interesting reef /turtle grass flat, three orchid species, Kula trade boats and open-air kitchen areas pleased us. I well remember having to dodge the occasional giant pink pig, led along by scurrying chicks, or hopscotching the leftover giant clam shells!
Along the shoreline, beneath their own specially constructed thatch huts, sat the Kula outrigger canoes. The ornately-carved bows and sterns were cultural treasure, priceless. The Kula trade voyages to adjacent islands can be several hundred miles, which take days in the open outriggers. Only to be followed by days of intense negotiation, magic, fasting. Oh, then but the return voyage!
Some lingered long on this shore. Kicking back in the sand beneath the coconuts, chatting with children, their teacher, their pastor. So many children! One of our naturalists took them Zodiacing, beamfuls! Brimming ship, smiles-alighting, parents watchful, hopeful, vicariously enjoying from shore.
We arrived in Papua New Guinea this Sunday morning! While we were officially clearing immigration and quarantine, we heard a powerpoint lecture on “Wallace’s Line: An explanation of the curious distribution of lifeforms in the Australasian Biogeographic Zone.” The talk explored how geology, biology and climate have interacted in deep time to produce two distinct yet proximal assemblages of mammals: marsupials and primates. Exploring the austral end with charismatic megafauna natural history anecdotes concerning tree kangaroos, wallabys, cuscus, casowarrie. Personality-wise we explored the remarkable story of Alfred Wallace and his discoveries including the theory of natural selection.
Afternoon. Our first PNG island expedition stop! The Budi Budi Islands! Finally! So many of us were eager to visit these extremely remote islands having heard about the Kula Trade and as well as the reputation for remarkable wood carvings. Upon landing on Bodaluna Island we all were carried to the church by the sweet, melodic voices of men and women singing earnestly accompanied by a couple guitarists. The men and women attendees separately sand-seated. The thatch was thick and long and wide and ever so high! Noticing lashing was not employed, we learned that the structure had been built hurriedly following the church’s total destruction in last year’s cyclone.
The low lying island begged for a walking exploration. We were encouraged to walk solo or in small groups about the island until dusk. Our travelers including cone shell, orchid, sailing, cooking enthusiasts and the combination of low tide with an interesting reef /turtle grass flat, three orchid species, Kula trade boats and open-air kitchen areas pleased us. I well remember having to dodge the occasional giant pink pig, led along by scurrying chicks, or hopscotching the leftover giant clam shells!
Along the shoreline, beneath their own specially constructed thatch huts, sat the Kula outrigger canoes. The ornately-carved bows and sterns were cultural treasure, priceless. The Kula trade voyages to adjacent islands can be several hundred miles, which take days in the open outriggers. Only to be followed by days of intense negotiation, magic, fasting. Oh, then but the return voyage!
Some lingered long on this shore. Kicking back in the sand beneath the coconuts, chatting with children, their teacher, their pastor. So many children! One of our naturalists took them Zodiacing, beamfuls! Brimming ship, smiles-alighting, parents watchful, hopeful, vicariously enjoying from shore.
