Ghizo & Kennedy Islands, Solomon Islands
The decks were lined this morning as the National Geographic Endeavour navigated carefully through a narrow reef pass to anchor in the natural harbor of Ghizo Island. Gizo town, capital of the western province, and with a distinct frontier-town feel, was ours to explore this morning. We strolled through the market admiring the huge display of intricate wood carvings that were on display. Some hiked inland through the lush forest to a viewpoint, and the birders set off on a successful search for the endemic white-eye.
Meanwhile, the scuba divers took Zodiacs around the island to dive the wreck of the Toa Maru. This 6,000 ton freighter was a link in the “Tokyo Express,” secretly re-supplying Japanese forces on Guadalcanal during WWII. Mortally wounded and on fire following aerial attacks from U.S. Dauntless torpedo bombers and Grumman F-4 Wildcats, the Toa Maru sank just off the coast of Ghizo in January 1943. Lying on her side in 120 feet of clear water, this wreck is today a marvellous dive site and one of the best known WWII wrecks in the South Pacific. As the divers glided along the massive hull, we stopped to examine sake bottles, ammunition (pictured), a motorcycle, anti-aircraft guns, and even a two-man tank. Well encrusted with beautiful soft corals, the wreck is also home to a great diversity of fish, finding shelter in tiny nooks and crannies and escaping the sunlight in cavernous cargo holds.
Back on board, we enjoyed lunch on deck, watching the islands pass by as we sailed the short distance to Kasolo Island, renamed Kennedy Island as a result of its interesting history during the war. It was here that Lieutenant John F. Kennedy and other survivors of torpedo boat PT-109 came ashore, also in 1943, after being rammed and sunk by a Japanese destroyer. Kennedy famously carved a message on a coconut which was delivered by loyal locals to coastwatchers without arousing suspicion, allowing the surviving crew to be rescued by another PT boat after a few days. Eronie Kumana, the last surviving wartime scout involved in the rescue, now 90 years old, was on Kennedy Island today, proudly wearing a T-shirt proclaiming “I Rescued J.F.K.!”
The wreck of PT-109 was discovered in May 2002 during a National Geographic Expedition led by underwater explorer Robert Ballard. Several miles away, and in 1,200 feet of water, what little remains of the wreck was located using sonar, and filmed using a Remotely Operated Vehicle, but left undisturbed as a war grave.
Days of warfare and hardship seemed far away, as we enjoyed an afternoon of leisure on this idyllic island, about as close to the “desert island” of fantasy as it is possible to get. Chairs, umbrellas and cold drinks were brought ashore and set up on the golden sand. Snorkelers floated above a beautiful reef just offshore, while the glass bottom boat cruised past with those that preferred to remain dry aboard. It was even possible to enter the shade of the LEXspa tent for a massage on the beach! A far cry from the experience Kennedy and his crew had on this same tiny island.
The decks were lined this morning as the National Geographic Endeavour navigated carefully through a narrow reef pass to anchor in the natural harbor of Ghizo Island. Gizo town, capital of the western province, and with a distinct frontier-town feel, was ours to explore this morning. We strolled through the market admiring the huge display of intricate wood carvings that were on display. Some hiked inland through the lush forest to a viewpoint, and the birders set off on a successful search for the endemic white-eye.
Meanwhile, the scuba divers took Zodiacs around the island to dive the wreck of the Toa Maru. This 6,000 ton freighter was a link in the “Tokyo Express,” secretly re-supplying Japanese forces on Guadalcanal during WWII. Mortally wounded and on fire following aerial attacks from U.S. Dauntless torpedo bombers and Grumman F-4 Wildcats, the Toa Maru sank just off the coast of Ghizo in January 1943. Lying on her side in 120 feet of clear water, this wreck is today a marvellous dive site and one of the best known WWII wrecks in the South Pacific. As the divers glided along the massive hull, we stopped to examine sake bottles, ammunition (pictured), a motorcycle, anti-aircraft guns, and even a two-man tank. Well encrusted with beautiful soft corals, the wreck is also home to a great diversity of fish, finding shelter in tiny nooks and crannies and escaping the sunlight in cavernous cargo holds.
Back on board, we enjoyed lunch on deck, watching the islands pass by as we sailed the short distance to Kasolo Island, renamed Kennedy Island as a result of its interesting history during the war. It was here that Lieutenant John F. Kennedy and other survivors of torpedo boat PT-109 came ashore, also in 1943, after being rammed and sunk by a Japanese destroyer. Kennedy famously carved a message on a coconut which was delivered by loyal locals to coastwatchers without arousing suspicion, allowing the surviving crew to be rescued by another PT boat after a few days. Eronie Kumana, the last surviving wartime scout involved in the rescue, now 90 years old, was on Kennedy Island today, proudly wearing a T-shirt proclaiming “I Rescued J.F.K.!”
The wreck of PT-109 was discovered in May 2002 during a National Geographic Expedition led by underwater explorer Robert Ballard. Several miles away, and in 1,200 feet of water, what little remains of the wreck was located using sonar, and filmed using a Remotely Operated Vehicle, but left undisturbed as a war grave.
Days of warfare and hardship seemed far away, as we enjoyed an afternoon of leisure on this idyllic island, about as close to the “desert island” of fantasy as it is possible to get. Chairs, umbrellas and cold drinks were brought ashore and set up on the golden sand. Snorkelers floated above a beautiful reef just offshore, while the glass bottom boat cruised past with those that preferred to remain dry aboard. It was even possible to enter the shade of the LEXspa tent for a massage on the beach! A far cry from the experience Kennedy and his crew had on this same tiny island.
