At Sea
With Brava, the most westerly of the leeward islands of the Cape Verde archipelago disappearing from view (photo), we have begun the longest stretch of sea time on this Atlantic Odyssey. There are many for whom the days at sea are a highlight. Such days can be surprisingly busy, with a full program of presentations from the onboard field staff and other optional activities. Others enjoy the free time, away from interruptions, with a pile of books to read on the sun deck. Throughout the day the naturalists maintain a vigil on the bridge and foredeck, scanning the horizon for marine creatures. Today, we were fortunate enough to see both sperm whales and piloy whales at close quarters. The ship's historian spent the day astern, however, mulling over what we have already seen and done. The trouble with history, as one of my students once observed, is that it's all in the past.
It was our visit to the proud Republic of Cape Verde that stayed on my mind as we sailed westward with the trade winds and a following sea. These islands were uninhabited when discovered by the Portuguese in the mid-fifteenth century. The incentive for the Portuguese to settle in these islands was a grant of exclusive trading rights on the nearby shores of West Africa. Slaves were soon being imported in an attempt to develop agriculture on these barren islands. By 1582, some 13,700 slaves were working for some hundred Portuguese on Santiago and Fogo. Goats released onto hillsides for meat have caused the usual environmental damage. Together with removal of wood for heating fuel, they led to extensive deforestation that has increased the problem of water shortage. Occasional volcanic eruptions, the most recent on Fogo being in 1995, add to a raft of challenges for the inhabitants, mostly descendants of slaves brought to the islands for "seasoning". A fragile ecosystem, exposed to merciless Saharan winds, was rapidly destroyed by an uncaring colonialism.
Following the Carnation Revolution of 25 April 1974, huge public demonstrations secured release of the political prisoners on the islands. The following year, the Portuguese Prime Minister arrived on the islands to declare: "In the name of the people of Portugal, I say to you from the bottom of our hearts: “Long live the independence of Cape Verde." Was it expected that the new Republic of Cape Verde would fail? The meager resources of the islands were less than promising. Nevertheless, the first generation of political leadership on the island can look back on years of progress.
Food aid has been obtained from the international community but the new government would not allow its free distribution. It did not want to create a dependency culture. Instead food aid was linked to public works - road repair, rainwater reservoirs for villages and the like. Cape Verde has a participatory democracy, a free press, political parties and vigorous political debate, to which the multiple slogans daubed on walls testified. Education, particularly for girls, has been given priority. In 1974, most of the population was illiterate. Within five years of independence, the illiteracy rate had been halved. In 1975, there were just 13 military doctors in the archipelago, now there are hundreds of doctors. Infant mortality has been dramatically reduced. Research into rural ecology has been undertaken. The need to reverse desertification was identified as top priority. Nine million trees were planted in first decade of independence. Much effort has gone into conserving and distributing precious supplies of rainwater. Finally, the tender shoots of the tourism are bringing welcome employment to island like Fogo, an island that is attracting the new generation of ecotourists.
We were as proud to play our part as were our guides to show us the beauties of their island home. By our standards of affluence, most islanders seem very poor indeed. But their ambition is to have sufficient for their basic needs. In an island community that saw periodic famines under colonial rule, there is pride in what has been achieved so far and hope for the future. We wish them well and will remember them fondly.
With Brava, the most westerly of the leeward islands of the Cape Verde archipelago disappearing from view (photo), we have begun the longest stretch of sea time on this Atlantic Odyssey. There are many for whom the days at sea are a highlight. Such days can be surprisingly busy, with a full program of presentations from the onboard field staff and other optional activities. Others enjoy the free time, away from interruptions, with a pile of books to read on the sun deck. Throughout the day the naturalists maintain a vigil on the bridge and foredeck, scanning the horizon for marine creatures. Today, we were fortunate enough to see both sperm whales and piloy whales at close quarters. The ship's historian spent the day astern, however, mulling over what we have already seen and done. The trouble with history, as one of my students once observed, is that it's all in the past.
It was our visit to the proud Republic of Cape Verde that stayed on my mind as we sailed westward with the trade winds and a following sea. These islands were uninhabited when discovered by the Portuguese in the mid-fifteenth century. The incentive for the Portuguese to settle in these islands was a grant of exclusive trading rights on the nearby shores of West Africa. Slaves were soon being imported in an attempt to develop agriculture on these barren islands. By 1582, some 13,700 slaves were working for some hundred Portuguese on Santiago and Fogo. Goats released onto hillsides for meat have caused the usual environmental damage. Together with removal of wood for heating fuel, they led to extensive deforestation that has increased the problem of water shortage. Occasional volcanic eruptions, the most recent on Fogo being in 1995, add to a raft of challenges for the inhabitants, mostly descendants of slaves brought to the islands for "seasoning". A fragile ecosystem, exposed to merciless Saharan winds, was rapidly destroyed by an uncaring colonialism.
Following the Carnation Revolution of 25 April 1974, huge public demonstrations secured release of the political prisoners on the islands. The following year, the Portuguese Prime Minister arrived on the islands to declare: "In the name of the people of Portugal, I say to you from the bottom of our hearts: “Long live the independence of Cape Verde." Was it expected that the new Republic of Cape Verde would fail? The meager resources of the islands were less than promising. Nevertheless, the first generation of political leadership on the island can look back on years of progress.
Food aid has been obtained from the international community but the new government would not allow its free distribution. It did not want to create a dependency culture. Instead food aid was linked to public works - road repair, rainwater reservoirs for villages and the like. Cape Verde has a participatory democracy, a free press, political parties and vigorous political debate, to which the multiple slogans daubed on walls testified. Education, particularly for girls, has been given priority. In 1974, most of the population was illiterate. Within five years of independence, the illiteracy rate had been halved. In 1975, there were just 13 military doctors in the archipelago, now there are hundreds of doctors. Infant mortality has been dramatically reduced. Research into rural ecology has been undertaken. The need to reverse desertification was identified as top priority. Nine million trees were planted in first decade of independence. Much effort has gone into conserving and distributing precious supplies of rainwater. Finally, the tender shoots of the tourism are bringing welcome employment to island like Fogo, an island that is attracting the new generation of ecotourists.
We were as proud to play our part as were our guides to show us the beauties of their island home. By our standards of affluence, most islanders seem very poor indeed. But their ambition is to have sufficient for their basic needs. In an island community that saw periodic famines under colonial rule, there is pride in what has been achieved so far and hope for the future. We wish them well and will remember them fondly.
