The Seychelles
Assumption & Aldabra
Each of us has our own image of what the perfect tropical paradise is, but I wager if we all pooled our representations together, they would describe the Seychelles. Not a place often mentioned in history books, geography class, or in the news, this archipelago almost exists in its own little world of white sand beaches, palm trees, and crystal clear azure waters.
The Seychelles is a nation of 115 islands in the Indian Ocean, and has the smallest population of any state in Africa. Like many fragile island ecosystems, the Seychelles saw the loss of biodiversity during early human history, including the disappearance of most of the giant tortoises from the granitic islands, the felling of coastal and mid-level forests, and the extinction of species such as the Seychelles Parakeet and the saltwater crocodile. However, today the Seychelles is known as a success story for protecting its flora and fauna.
Today is the first of two days visiting the Archipelago, and the question is where to start?! First stop Assumption, not only necessary for our inbound clearance into the Seychelles, but also our first chance at the white sand beaches and clear waters, perfect for a water sports morning. Out came the fins, masks, and snorkels as we dove into the waters surrounding Assumption. The marine life around the islands is spectacular, and more than 1000 species of fish have been recorded. Having banned the use of spear guns and dynamite for fishing through efforts of local conservationists in the 1960s, the wildlife is unafraid. But getting wet is not the only way to see the underwater world; one simply has to hop into National Geographic Explorer’s glass bottom Zodiac. Our own invention, it allows us to see just as much on the reefs as the snorkelers see, all in the comfort of a covered Zodiac (feel free to bring a beverage!).
Our afternoon would be spent on Aldabra. Designated as a World Heritage Site, Aldabra is virtually untouched by humans, save the researchers and support staff who inhabit the island. Whilst the atoll is home to the world's largest population of giant tortoises, (numbering some 100,000 individuals), it is also known for green turtles, hawksbill turtles, hammerhead sharks, mantarays, barracuda, and birds, including the Aldabra rail, the last surviving flightless bird of the Indian Ocean. While we explored the trails, stopping by “upside-down jellyfish lake,” and greeted the lazy tortoises, we also were able to do something, some might call crazy – we were swimming with sharks! Inside the lagoon, surrounding the wardens hut, were black-tipped reef and lemon sharks. Circling us lazily in the shallows, these sharks were far from the frenzied beasts we often see on TV, but the up close views we had of these incredible creatures, were enough to rival any nature channel.
Aldabra is far too expansive to spend just half a day there, so tomorrow we continue on with our exploration of the atoll. On that note, I must bid you all sweet dreams of tortoises and turtles - morning is fast upon us while we hope to see these elderly reptiles in the emerging light of tomorrow’s dawn.
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