LeMaire Channel, Booth Island, and Damoy Point
Knowing that a full day of spectacular weather does not occur every day, the Captain, crew, and expedition team did their best to make the most of today’s outstanding weather. Starting with a cruise of the iconic LeMaire Channel, with all tones of silver, gray, and black accenting the steep walls of the fjord, we knew that the still morning air had the potential to turn into an amazing day on the Antarctic Peninsula.
Rounding the south end of Booth Island, we landed very near Port Charcot, the over-wintering location of the expedition ship Française. On such a fantastic day the challenges of an Antarctic winter could not be further from thought. From the overlook we watched slow streams of ice drift with the tide or sail in the breeze. Orient yourself in the right direction and one can get an instantaneous feeling of complete isolation. Clear skies revealed a vast landscape dotted with small, ice-capped islands. Streams of ice march by in endless fashion. Kayaks appear as small flecks of yellow, slowly advancing towards azure bergs. Groups of red dots meander amongst gentoo penguin colonies. Over the din of gentoo penguin chatter, chinstrap penguins can be heard, reminding us of our spectacular first landing at Baily Head. The occasional Adélie penguin brings us back to our time in the Weddell Sea amongst tabular icebergs. Our fellow travelers are seeking their own form of isolation, finding their own way to reconnect with themselves, and with nature.
Weighing anchor from Booth Island, we then proceeded to do something rather unusual. Hoving to behind giant icebergs, the National Geographic Explorer deployed her fleet of Zodiacs for a water-line view of LeMaire Channel. With National Geographic Explorer alongside us as a great photography subject, we slalomed through the ice looking for crabeater and Weddell seals. This morning the LeMaire Channel greeted us with flat calm waters, silvery light and wispy clouds, black and white photograph in motion. This afternoon’s passage was accented by an overwhelmingly blue sky against striking white snow.
Complacency can sometimes get the better of people when things are going good. However, this evening our Expedition Leader Lisa decided that our day was not over yet. On a day where enthusiasm never waned, we geared up after dinner for an unforgettable evening landing. Back home, 9 or 10 o’clock means enjoying after dinner tea, finding a good book or sliding into bed. But on this night it means parkas, rubber boots, and sunscreen. With sun streaming through Neumayer Channel, we landed at Damoy Point amidst a flotilla of gentoo penguins, not a cloud in sight. From a nearby viewpoint, thoughts were gathered, sights were soaked, and memories were made. The green flash of the setting sun signaled the end of our long day. With bellies full of supper and thoughts of “How could today have ended any other way?” we returned to our ship.
Even now, as the last minutes of this calendar day slip away, the sun is painting glorious light and casting pleasing shadows on the Peninsula. In a place with such prolonged “Magic Hours,” how can we find time to sleep without feeling the guilt of a missing a beautiful scene?
