Cooper Bay & Larson Harbor, South Georgia Island
Cooper Bay proved to be a rather exciting morning for many. A Zodiac cruise across the mouth of the bay offered close up glimpses of the Macaroni Penguin. Many on board the National Geographic Explorer had been looking forward to sighting this particular penguin since arrival. The yellow feathers across the brow of this smaller penguin were named after the hair-do of fashionable 18th century dandies returning from Europe. The Macaroni colony here in Cooper Bay is the most easily viewed in South Georgia. We were lucky the weather was pleasant, allowing everyone a close up view.
Half the morning was also spent wandering around the beach landing. Some spent their time sitting and waiting for a baby elephant seal to join them (several were successful) others marveled at the size of the male elephant seals lounging on the beach.
Just behind our chosen landing site a battle was raging. Well, maybe “raging” is a bit strong, but Giant Petrels, Brown Skuas, and Sheathbills were fighting over the carcass of a large Elephant Seal. Typical of the Giant Petrels, they were sticking their heads inside and feasting on the remains of this recently passed Elephant Seal. It was rather exciting, and amusing, to watch these birds posturing and fighting over dominance of the feast. They would race in, wings spread wide, bent with their beaks nearly on the ground, tail feathers splayed, and neck feathers standing on end. They looked positively prehistoric.
The afternoon was prehistoric in a different way. Zodiac cruises through Larsen Harbor were full of ancient geologic history. Towering, jagged mountain tops soared above our heads as we cruised between the steep walls of the fjord. Sharp wind died to almost nothing upon entering this amazing place. Many species of birds were spotted, including South Georgia’s own Pintail Duck. They are sometimes known to nest here, and a pair seemed to be sticking close to a specific area leading us to surmise there was a nest nearby.
Finally, the day wound to a magnificent end while the National Geographic Explorer cruised to the end of Drygalski Fjord. The sun was out in full, enormous glaciers flowed to the sea, and snow capped mountain peaks completed the ethereal scene. Re-cap, dinner was served and we all watched as the wind picked up during our cruise out to sea.
What will tomorrow hold? We wait and wonder with the excitement of true explorers.
