Moltke Bay & Jason Harbour, South Georgia Island
This morning had a different feel and look to it. Finally, after we spent two weeks onboard, a small storm finally found us. But, being well-planned as always, Expedition Leader Lisa had us scheduled for a protected harbor with two fine options for exploration. Some of us went ashore to explore the ruins of the 1882 – 83 International Polar Year German Research Station, while others went for a hike in Whale Valley.
At the research station we were able to see where the astronomical, meteorological, and geomagnetic observations were made by the 11 scientists who spent that year here. Although there were no buildings still standing, what remained was still identifiable and fascinating.
From there we decided to go up and explore, up the hill and onto the rolling plain above. There, we were in the realm of the reindeer. It was a magical place with rolling moss-covered hills, rock outcroppings, small ponds, distant reindeer sightings, scattered antlers, and a hilltop gentoo penguin colony where nests were made of vegetation instead of stones. The occasional drifting mist and soft grayish light made it all the more enjoyable.
The Whale Valley hikers also had a good leg stretch, but their biggest surprise was waiting for them when they returned. The landing beach that had only had a few “weaners” (elephant seal pups) on it to begin with, now had 24 of them who were more than friendly. They are now weaned and left to fast for one to two months before going to sea to feed themselves, but they are not yet past the point of looking for a new mother with whom to spend some time.
In the late afternoon we enjoyed a hike at Jason Harbour with some wonderful wildlife viewing. There were peaty pintail (duck) pools, a sunken hollow with molting king penguins, a nursery lake with frolicking elephant seal pups, and some excellent views of reindeers with antlers in velvet.
Onboard this evening the crew shared some of their culture with us by serving us a traditional Filipino dinner.
