Briksdal Glacier and Surroundings
We began our exploration of Norway’s glaciated country in a classic fjord. Granite walls soar over Nordfjord, and drop to impressive salty depths. Wispy falls plummet or meander over its steep sides. Forests of birch and pine cling to a light veneer of soil. Despite the severity of this landscape, farms are wedged into every habitable spot. Cheery houses, sod-covered barns and tidy towns enliven the landscape.
We docked at the village of Olden and bussed up the valley. From the road’s end we walked to the glacier, following a stream that drained glacial meltwater. Our trail wound through forest and field. We passed bedrock gouged by the glacier’s stony belly, and huge boulders floated in to place by a river of ice. We bridged the stream and climbed beside an impressive waterfall. Spring was all about us. Red campion, buttercup and wild geranium nodded in lush green meadows. Birdsong filled the trees. We were glad to see willow warblers singing, as well as chiffchaffs, blackcaps and thrushes. Some of us were lucky enough to see the dipper – Norway’s national bird! – busy among the rapids and waterfalls. At the trail’s end we contemplated the ice. Briksdal Glacier flows from Europe’s largest icefield. It tumbles over a steep wall, and is rent by its stiff collapse into a jumble of huge pinnacles. Many of us saw a great chunk of ice cleave and tumble from the glacier’s side, fragmenting into a colossal waterfall of ice.
On our way back from the glacier, we stopped by Olden’s church. Built in 1759, it is full of quirky woodwork, such as peeled-branch hat-hangers, all on the church’s right side. (Women, who sit to the left, keep their hats on.)
In the early evening, we stopped by Selja Island to see the remains of Selje Abbey. The abbey is situated by Saint Sunniva’s cave. The Saint, holed up with followers in her cave, was beset by pagan locals. She prayed that they not fall into heathen hands, whereupon rocks fell, sealing the cave’s entrance. Sometimes the cure is worse than the disease! The abbey had walls built of massive stones surrounded by brick-sized filler, making intriguing patterns. Up a steep hill, from her cave we enjoyed Saint Sunniva’s last view – an impressive vista of island and sea.
Later, the Captain gave us an official “Welcome aboard,” and while he spoke, the surf-soaked outer coast of Norway slid by. It was striking scenery, as was all that we had seen today – a great introduction to a splendid part of the world!
