Searching the Pack Ice, Svalbard
After our departure from Lagøya we cruised south through Hinlopen Strait, the body of water that separates Spitsbergen from Nordaustland, under the light of the midnight sun. Early this morning we arrived in a body of water called Bjornsundet – or Bear Sound. Here we found the type of conditions that one dreams of in the Arctic. There was not a breath of wind, glassy calm seas and enough pack ice to support wildlife but not enough to impede navigation. The outline plan for the day was to search for the iconic Arctic wildlife that can be found in the pack ice given skilled observers, plenty of patience and a healthy dose of luck.
From the outset we were off to a good start, with excellent looks at a large bearded seal resting on an ice floe. Then around breakfast we encountered our first polar bear of the day. One of the most exciting aspects of watching polar bears is that each animal behaves as an individual, and you can never predict how an encounter will play out. This morning the first bear of the day proved to be an inquisitive type, and walked across the pack ice to within a few meters of the bow of our ship. We stood on deck and watched in awe as this top predator spent a few minutes satisfying her (we think) curiosity about this strange newcomer before continuing on her way.
The day continued in a serene and wonderful pattern. Ever changing light conditions playing on the ice, ocean and landscape. Presentations were interspersed with wildlife encounters as we discovered more seals, walrus and bears until the bear count for the day reached about a dozen (although none as close as the first). We saw bears with cubs, bears hunting and one bear even thought to inspect a group of walrus resting on an ice floe, before deciding to leave these massive beasts alone.
This evening we successfully navigated the narrow passage of Heleysundet making this the first voyage this season that we have been able to reach the waters of northern Storfjord, between Edgøya and Spitsbergen, which have been ice-choked until now. Tomorrow, National Geographic Explorer will continue south through Storfjord in her attempt to circumnavigate the island of Spitsbergen for her first time this season.
