Española Island

We anchored at 0600 in the lovely and calm bay off the mile long white sand beach of Gardner, at Española or Hood Island. The crew lowered the kayaks and Zodiacs and the birders among us admired a few frigate birds sail above and then perch on the National Geographic Islander. Daniel took the kayakers along the western shore of the island where they were escorted by cavorting sea lions as they paddled. At 0800 we all heaped our plates with fresh fruits, eggs and cereal from the abundant breakfast buffet.

The snorkelers suited up and rode the Zodiacs to a small offshore island. We snorkeled along the cliffs of Gardner in crystal clear and chilly water accompanied by the ever curious sea lions. Later, on the gorgeous white beach, we were thoroughly entertained by a couple hundred sea lions that were resting, patrolling, nursing and playing on the sand. We took countless photos, strolled and relaxed, too. We were intrigued by the brazen Española mocking birds who hopped on our towels and around our feet checking us out as potential sources of food. Of course we gave them nothing; we well understood the importance of observing only, and not interfering with, the animals. We were reluctant to leave this glorious beach at noon – there are few beaches in the world that are as beautiful and still completely pristine!

Our afternoon hike along the lava boulder strewn trail at Punta Suarez on the western tip of Española was a fabulous finale to a great week. We had more perfect weather: sunny, blue skies and a cool breeze blowing. We disembarked on a small cement dock (after coaxing the sea lions off it!) and immediately found the colorful marine iguanas, large lava lizards and cheeky mockingbirds that are endemic to this island only. We walked through a Nazca booby colony, out to the blowhole, which sprayed mist high above the cliffs and were shown the nesting area of the waved albatross. There have been only a few chicks raised successfully this season, but we were able to see a couple of these up close and personal. They are in the final process of shedding their down for the adult flight feathers. Within about a month the juveniles and the last of the adults will desert Galápagos and spend the next few months at sea, feeding off the coast of Peru and Chile on the rich Humboldt Current.

As the sun set, we looped back toward the beach where more sea lions had hauled up on shore and the marine iguanas were beginning to pile up for the night. We returned somewhat sadly to the ship – sorry to be leaving these enchanted islands but content that we had the privilege of visiting and of many memorable experiences during this short week.