Terre de Haut, Iles des Saintes

We had a calm night at anchor just off the town of Bourg. This morning most of us explored Fort Napoleon. From its location high on the hill next to town, there are beautiful views of Sea Cloud II and the harbor. Lennox offered a guided walk around Fort Napoleon and its fine museum, which details the important fight that took place in these waters in 1782, the Battle of the Saintes.

Afterwards there was time to walk in the quaint, picturesque village of Bourg. The very narrow, one-way streets are lined by pretty wooden buildings; their deck railings and awnings are decorated with ornate wooden patterns. Tiny parks are perfectly manicured, and the church and mayor’s building are decorated for Christmas. This is a very French Caribbean island, where the currency is the Euro and French is spoken.

Snorkelers visited a small beach and snorkeled over sand and large boulders. There was so much to find underwater! Even the sand had surprises: a long leaf on the bottom turned out to be a sea horse! A flat slab of rock concealed a spotted moray eel. As dark clouds passed overhead, plankton-feeding fishes moved out of the water column and gathered near the bottom. As soon as the sun shone again, they swam up and resumed feeding, their usual daytime activity. Flying gurnards appeared to walk over the bottom, and trumpetfishes changed colors and patterns from yellow to red to plaid, striped, and blue. Porcupinefish peeked out from overhangs, and trunkfish hovered like small helicopters. The last snorkelers were laughing non-stop as they returned to the ship: heavy rain and wind and waves made for a very wet, bumpy and fun Zodiac ride!

After lunch, crew went aloft to set sails, and we enjoyed a gorgeous afternoon sailing up to the south and west of Guadeloupe. Engine room tours were available. Most of us relaxed on deck in steamer chairs, glancing aloft at square sails while engaged in conversations or catching up on reading. We enjoyed a lovely, long afternoon under sail and sunshine. Late in the afternoon crew went aloft to furl sails, and then Berit gave a presentation on ecology of coral reefs.

Our evening began with champagne on the Lido Deck at Captain’s Farewell Cocktails, and then continued with a gourmet five course meal for Captain’s Farewell Dinner.