Española Island

Those who woke early, for kayaking along the coast of the offshore islet of Gardner, were rewarded with cool weather, curious sea lions and calm seas. They worked up quite an appetite and joined the rest of our guests – who had the chance to sleep in until 0800 - for a wonderful breakfast buffet. After the meal, we gathered our snorkeling gear and soon boarded the Zodiacs to swim among the tropical fish, sea lions, a large white-tipped shark and several rays.

Later, we waded ashore to a lovely, fine white sand beach where we strolled among dozens of resting and frolicking sea lions. Halfway down the beach we found a newly born sea lion pup. Frigate birds, pelicans and mockingbirds quarreled over the bloody remains of the placenta while the mother sea lion rested, with baby clumsily searching for a nipple and its first drink along her back. To our tremendous relief mother sea lion turned some, baby kept nuzzling and soon it was hungrily suckling.

We enjoyed the beach immensely and all agreed that most beaches in the world that are this beautiful have hotels – rather than sea lions – spread along them! At noon the guides and I had to coax the reluctant guests off this incredible stretch of sand and back to our cozy ship for lunch.

The afternoon’s walk along a boulder trail at Punta Suarez was one of our best hikes of the week. There was so much wildlife to see! From the tiny warbler finches, to the huge, elegant waved albatross, two species of boobies, “Christmas” iguanas in their courtship colors (they are red and green this time of the year!), a Galápagos snake, and a chance to sit quietly and soak in all the soaring birds, the blasting salt spray and the magic of the enchanted islands of Galápagos. This has been a superb expedition, with day after day of unforgettable experiences. We have been delighted with our week’s exploration of this intact and unique island ecosystem.