The Roughness of Youth

The swell moves the National Geographic Islander calmly from side to side as we arrive early this morning to Urbina Bay on the western coast of Isabela Island. This shallow bay was created in 1954 prior to a volcanic eruption on Alcedo volcano which violently uplifted six square kilometers of coast line. This uplift stranded all types of intertidal life inland, high and dry. We walked among large coral heads that could date back more than a thousand years and were presented to us after this uplift. The excursion was highlighted with land iguanas, a tortoise, and many Darwin finches.

After this hot and humid walk it was a true pleasure to take a dip in the ocean as penguins and flightless cormorants looked on from their lounging position along the rugged coast line. We were blessed with exceptional, albeit hot, weather in the morning, however this would change in the afternoon.

We continued navigation forward to the southern part of Isabela Island which held our afternoon visitor site at Punta Moreno. The sky gradually became grey as we approached our destination and we were able to feel the change in ambient pressure. The deep black basalt flows were not the most inviting, however our curiosity abounded. We decided to land on the moon or so it appeared.

This part of Isabela is one of the most volcanically active and youngest of areas in the Galápagos archipelago. Upon this basaltic lava flow that is solidified we found an oasis that has no comparison in nature. We came into an area that has a small depression in the lava flow where we found water; while brackish, it contains an environment that holds a haven for various species including the greater flamingos that we encountered. Young lava and flamingos, what a strange combination, as we think about how an immature area starts to receive life and how life seems to know how to survive in this hostile environment.

Some of our guests explored the new coastal area on a Zodiac ride and after a short period we received a downpour that managed to wet everyone to the bone. The rain is a necessity if we are to have a change in this rough, young part of the Galápagos Islands.