Santiago Island
Our day was greeted by fire in the sky, a sunrise that started as a deep orange lighting up the clouds. Espumilla beach on Santiago has a dense nesting area for Pacific green sea turtles and was without a footprint as we landed there. In its recent history, this island was being decimated by feral goats, however when we arrived there was the birdsong of finches to welcome us and no sign of the goats. After many years of effort here in Galápagos, we have eliminated one of the biggest threats to conservation of Santiago, the goat. The lush vegetation is returning where we have not seen it in years and the natural processes continue on their path. As we gain altitude we have a view of a rugged coastline that was recently volcanically active – it gives us a sense of place in Darwin’s islands.
Our Captain, Pablo repositions the ship to Buccaneers’ Cove, which has served as a haven for pirates and buccaneers in the past as they could careen their ships for repairs. Kayaking along the coast reveals high cliffs that were formed during the eruptions on the coastal cinder cones that are found here. It is incredible that shorebirds can nest here including the Brown Noddy that places its egg on a two-square-inch nest high above the ocean. The deep-water snorkelers found an abundance of life including large schools of Steel Pompanos, Surgeon fish and sting rays. As we finished our morning visit a Zodiac ride revealed the geological forms of the coast including large pinnacles the jut out of the ocean.
In the afternoon we arrived at Puerto Egas, which was an area occupied by humans up until the 1960’s, and we are able to see what was left behind at this settlement. After taking a dip in the sea with the sea lions frolicking around us, we continued on a hike along the exposed coastal area. Tidal pools reveal a high diversity of life. Ruddy turnstones and Oystercatchers pick around the pools while small herons pick up a bite to eat, which includes yellow-tailed damsels and small grunts. The marine iguanas lay among the sea lions, and we watch our steps over the lava flows, which include a speckling of sand and compacted ash. As we come to the end of our coastal trail we notice Galápagos fur seals lazing in the glow of the afternoon. A magical day in the life.
