Santiago
We anchored off the mile-long beach at Espumilla as the first light of dawn pushed the night aside and a gorgeous new day began in the Islas Encantadas. The ocean was mirror calm and the pale blue sky utterly cloudless. The early risers among us sipped coffee, nibbled muffins and chatted amicably in the lounge while the crew lowered Zodiacs and kayaks and prepared to take us to shore. Naturalists Ruly and Fernando led hikers through a grove of mangroves and into a spectacular palo santo forest. Finches flitted about, magnificent Galápagos hawks were spotted and they were buzzed by a National Park helicopter taking photos. Naturalist Walter took the kayakers along the beach and steep cliffs for a good long paddle in our bright yellow boats. They saw sea lions, blue-footed boobies and sea turtles.
Those who had chosen to sleep in joined the hikers and paddlers upon their return for a hearty breakfast, and in the late morning we had a choice of snorkeling or going for a Zodiac cruise at the old pirate hangout of Buccaneer Cove. The snorkeling was fantastic and they swam among sharks, rays and many colorful fish. During the Zodiac cruise we explored the rugged coast and then some of us swam from the ship.
After lunch and a short siesta we disembarked on the black sand beach of Puerto Egas for a walk along the coast. The loop trail had inland and beach legs that were both interesting and totally different from one another. Inland we strolled on a flat trail, through lush green plants and bird watched. We spied Darwin finches, bright yellow warblers, the central islands Galápagos mockingbirds and our Naturalists pointed out the introduced black anis. The anis were brought by farmers who hoped these aggressive birds would pick ticks off their cattle. Instead they prey on lava lizards and the helpless hatchlings of the endemic song birds. This is yet another example of man’s foolish interference with the well-balanced ecosystem that has backfired. It will be a difficult chore to eradicate these introduced birds.
We hiked along the rough lava coast and here we enjoyed watching many sea and shorebirds, marine iguanas and both sea lions and fur seals. These two species of pinnepeds, or eared seals, are endemic to the Galápagos Islands; but they came to the islands from opposite directions. The ancestor of the Galápagos sea lion is the California sea lion from the north, while the ancestor of the fur seal came from the cool waters off South America.
The coastal trail wandered along the shore and we walked alternately on sand and lava rocks and took countless photos of sprawled and basking marine iguanas and sea lions in a variety of poses. We really enjoyed this hike and our chance to stroll among the fearless creatures. It has been yet another great day in paradise!
