Glacier Bay
This morning aboard the National Geographic Sea Bird we were blessed with sun kissed skies and a bow pointed north into the deep recesses of a fjord once filled with ice. Before breakfast we visited South Marble Island and in the company of Stellar sea lions admired the breathtaking backdrop of the Fairweather Range as puffins, murres and guillemots bounced across the water before take off.
The smell of cottonwood buds permeating the air and Rufus hummingbirds buzzing us on the bow, we contemplatively tried to wrap our heads around the fact that not long ago this whole area was filled with ice. How could 65 miles of ice 4,000+ feet thick disappear in just 200 years? We would spend our day on bow and bridge contemplating not only the story of recession and succession but also perhaps a defining moment when we were exposed to wilderness and wildness and its value for the earth, heart and soul.
Continuing northwest up the bay, it did not take long for us to spot our first mountain goats both north and south of Tidal Inlet. Hanging low they seemed exposed from hidden predators while savoring fresh greens of spring after enduring winter’s windswept slopes and marginal forage. Upon leaving Gloomy Knob a goat made what appeared to us an impossible jump across a dike in the diorite and we cheered upon its landing safely.
Approaching the end of Tarr Inlet and Glacier Bay we spotted a brown bear crossing an outwash close to Grand Pacific Glacier. The bear stood on its hind haunches and rubbed its back against rock recently revealed from receding glaciers.
Towering Margerie Glacier stood before us as we had come as far as we could come before crossing the border into Canada. Margerie calved on either side of its 200+ foot face and while signs of calving from Grand Pacific were out of view it was equally as audible as the white behemoth before us. Taking time to enjoy the splendor of a glacial scene that once dominated, we felt humbled by the power of ice and the landscape it has sculpted!
As with every good exit from a tidewater glacier Margerie put on a show as we turned the ship south in search of whatever may come our way. In the afternoon some enjoyed aft reclining chairs, others dedicated themselves to the bow, while most enjoyed a program in the lounge.
Interrupted by a call from the bow, we all quickly gathered for the unusual sighting of a swimming moose! Where did it come from and how long had it been in the water? We watched it cruise the coastline looking for an exit until finally it made its way onto a gentle beach!
Silently (as a boat could be) we entered Geike Inlet, as if any one of us could know what would reward us for our silence. A bald eagle swooped down in attempt to grab a fish and the next thing we knew, we saw our national symbol sitting in the water like a duck!
All eyes on deck combed hill and shore and soon black bears were spotted on a beach and we crept closer in collective silence. Three healthy black bears recently emerged from winter’s den. We could ask for no better way to end a quintessential Southeast Alaska day!
This morning aboard the National Geographic Sea Bird we were blessed with sun kissed skies and a bow pointed north into the deep recesses of a fjord once filled with ice. Before breakfast we visited South Marble Island and in the company of Stellar sea lions admired the breathtaking backdrop of the Fairweather Range as puffins, murres and guillemots bounced across the water before take off.
The smell of cottonwood buds permeating the air and Rufus hummingbirds buzzing us on the bow, we contemplatively tried to wrap our heads around the fact that not long ago this whole area was filled with ice. How could 65 miles of ice 4,000+ feet thick disappear in just 200 years? We would spend our day on bow and bridge contemplating not only the story of recession and succession but also perhaps a defining moment when we were exposed to wilderness and wildness and its value for the earth, heart and soul.
Continuing northwest up the bay, it did not take long for us to spot our first mountain goats both north and south of Tidal Inlet. Hanging low they seemed exposed from hidden predators while savoring fresh greens of spring after enduring winter’s windswept slopes and marginal forage. Upon leaving Gloomy Knob a goat made what appeared to us an impossible jump across a dike in the diorite and we cheered upon its landing safely.
Approaching the end of Tarr Inlet and Glacier Bay we spotted a brown bear crossing an outwash close to Grand Pacific Glacier. The bear stood on its hind haunches and rubbed its back against rock recently revealed from receding glaciers.
Towering Margerie Glacier stood before us as we had come as far as we could come before crossing the border into Canada. Margerie calved on either side of its 200+ foot face and while signs of calving from Grand Pacific were out of view it was equally as audible as the white behemoth before us. Taking time to enjoy the splendor of a glacial scene that once dominated, we felt humbled by the power of ice and the landscape it has sculpted!
As with every good exit from a tidewater glacier Margerie put on a show as we turned the ship south in search of whatever may come our way. In the afternoon some enjoyed aft reclining chairs, others dedicated themselves to the bow, while most enjoyed a program in the lounge.
Interrupted by a call from the bow, we all quickly gathered for the unusual sighting of a swimming moose! Where did it come from and how long had it been in the water? We watched it cruise the coastline looking for an exit until finally it made its way onto a gentle beach!
Silently (as a boat could be) we entered Geike Inlet, as if any one of us could know what would reward us for our silence. A bald eagle swooped down in attempt to grab a fish and the next thing we knew, we saw our national symbol sitting in the water like a duck!
All eyes on deck combed hill and shore and soon black bears were spotted on a beach and we crept closer in collective silence. Three healthy black bears recently emerged from winter’s den. We could ask for no better way to end a quintessential Southeast Alaska day!
