Pavlof Harbor and Basket Bay
Our final day of exploration in this remarkable ecosystem began with still air and oil-calm seas. Only the wake from National Geographic Sea Bird and the occasional spout from a breathing whale disturbed the morning stillness. Upon entering Freshwater Bay the rattling of chains signaled our arrival at Pavlof Harbor and the morning’s operations began. A last chance to hike, paddle or ride through Southeast Alaska was partaken by all.
Today we had chances to enjoy the serenity of ocean kayaking or the echoing chorus of a bear-aware hike through woods strewn with wildlife opportunities. What will stay with us the most? Walking a bear trail through a forest fueled by the bodies of would-be salmonid parents? Or could it be the ongoing efforts of red-breasted sap suckers darting to and from their nesting cavity? Signs, sounds and sights of Alaska’s wildlife abound in Pavlof Harbor.
The low tide afternoon Zodiac cruise at Basket Bay afforded us great views of an intertidal world many have come to love. It’s here, where the sea recedes and exposes willing participants that many of us first fell in love with marine wildlife. The intertidal zone is the most easily accessible of all marine ecosystems and the large tidal range of Southeast Alaska affords a glimpse of an otherwise alien world. We spotted sea stars poised for a strike on air-exposed mussels. Relegated to the lower reaches of the intertidal zone, the stars have precious short time to advance upon the higher mussels, consume their prey and retreat before an outgoing tide threatens the star with deadly desiccation. A tasty treat just out of arm’s reach, these animals are thwarted and thus limited by the tides.
Although humans have always been bound to terra firma and the gaseous atmosphere, some have found a way to return to the sea. On this day, we donned our ridiculous suits, strapped heavy lead to our bodies and brought along a personal, compressed atmosphere to explore the depths surrounding Pavlof Harbor. Once the bane of every Bosun’s existence, a low-tide exposed/high-tide concealed offshore rock became an inner space for us. Descending through fresh water from a nearby river, we penetrated the interface zone and reached a truly marine benthic environment. Crevices held conga-lines of dock shrimp and under kelp fronds a crescent gunnel held still, hoping to not be noticed. An enthusiastic eye can sort through the noise and find the interesting critters.
