Inian Islands, Elfin Cove and George Island
A point of congestion for the incoming species of Pacific salmonids, the narrow constriction that is Cross Sound serves as an efficient place to set up shop for northern sea lions. Using our fleet of Zodiacs, our morning operation was devoted to experiencing a small look into this pinniped’s daily life at a place called the Inian Islands. It’s here that non-breeding animals, generally young males, hone their skills as one of Alaska’s top predators. Yet, it’s not until the true heavyweight males show themselves that the true potential of this species can be appreciated. Watching a thousand pound (or more) animal twist and turn with unbelievable agility will draw excitement from even the most stoic observer.
Today we saw many large males, most with gashes and cuts to their bodies, especially flippers. It’s likely that these males left the battle grounds and have given up on breeding this season. It was fairly obvious that some of these gargantuan males were low on energy, perhaps from days of guarding precious real estate and coveted female sea lions. Now these energetically spent males must use all their tools to catch the silver, salmon-shaped bullets shooting through these tumultuous waters, heading for their own breeding locations and battle grounds. Breeding male sea lions will often be a shadow of their former self after a successful breeding season, so it’s important that they quickly partake in the piscine pig out before having to rely on more distant food sources.
Our after-lunch operation allowed us to visit a place very few outsiders get to experience. After having an introduction to the town by local Mary Jo Wild, guests were shuttled ashore to one of Southeast Alaska’s road-less communities, Elfin Cove. With only a handful of year-round residents, this small collection of buildings around a protected natural boat harbor relies on fishing and tourism for its livelihood. The only way to Elfin Cove is by sea or by sea plane and once here you’d be hard pressed to find more than a few hundred yards of man-made walking surfaces.
During this operation, the hotel manager Michael and I explored some of the area’s kelp forests not from a Zodiac or kayak, but by SCUBA. Descending past the kelps’ maximum depth, we encountered rocks covered in invertebrates from ascidians to hydroids. Under the suspicious gaze of a benthic fish called a ronquill, we searched for interesting creatures to film for our guests.
At our deepest point we spotted many basket stars and five species of nudibranchs, or sea slugs. During our slow ascent our bubbles caught the attention of a school of blue and dusky rockfish which proceeded to marvel us with their curiosity and fearlessness. Evidently they have no fear of sea lions either because all of sudden we had a visitor. A huge visitor, perhaps one we just watched tearing up fish with tremendous thrashing. The rest of our dive was all bonus time after such a thrilling run-in.
Sometimes humans are drawn to airborne marine mammals like moths to a flame, and that’s just what happened this afternoon. Between our anchorages a mother and calf humpback whales were spotted doing the aerial acrobatics they are so famous for. With a brief yet memorable show of grace and force burned into our brains and on our memory cards, they whales continued on their way. With the multi-ton distractions now out of sight, it was time to head to our third and final activity of the day.
With a dip of the paddle or plodding of boot we explored George Island this afternoon. Some ventured to the northern side of the island to learn about a World War II gun emplacement and Southeast Alaska’s wartime history while others explored the upper regions of the intertidal zone. For those seeking an upper body workout the kayaks were brought down for more personal exploration of George Islands protected waterways.
