Red Bluff Bay and Pavlof Harbor
Baranof Island has many inlets, indentations, coves and bays along its eastern shore. Sheltered by a sprinkling of small islands at its mouth, the waters of Red Bluff Bay are as calm as can be. Steep cliffs amidst the cool gray skies of early morning light, low wispy clouds and a light drizzle set the scene for our morning. Early risers were treated to a stillness and serenity most of us have traveled thousands of miles to experience.
Today was our first dive of the voyage and with the help of some fairly bright lights, the mysterious waters of Red Bluff Bay became our early morning playground. The Hotel Manager and I traversed vast laminate kelp beds in search of our subjects. We stopped to admire the meticulously manicured garb of a kelp crab, replete with an algae-festooned carapace. Sea stars abound at this site ranging from rose stars, leather, and sunflower stars.
Using powerful lights, the darkness was penetrated as we descended deep and the striking yet delicate pink of a crimson anemone contrasted nicely against the blue-green water. We did finally find a nice wall covered in invertebrates after leaving the “sunlit” shallower waters. Encrusting organisms of all shapes and sizes created a living layer upon the rocks of Red Bluff Bay. Our exploration of Red Bluff Bay yielded exciting video that guests enjoyed during evening recap. Even though it was our very first dive anywhere near this location, the productive waters of Southeast Alaska did not disappoint. Life abounds down there.
On the slightly drier side of Red Bluff Bay we were treated to our first sighting of coastal brown bears as they slowly but steadily grazed in a nearby meadow. With binocular and spotting scope at hand we pondered the true size and strength of these impressive omnivores.
Our afternoon activities were welcomed with clearing skies and beautiful light at Pavlof Harbor. As hikers explored the forest and kayakers plied the seas, wildlife began to stir. The last hours of a day can be great for wildlife viewing and it was during the later part of our activities that beavers and a mink were spotted.
Due to the extremely high tide, fish started to make their push up the small waterfall and began to enter Pavlof Lake. Fighting tons of force, Dolly Varden (a char) and possibly trout were seen making desperate leaps up the falls like fishy surface-to-air missiles. Repeated attempts were turned back by gravity and raging water. It’s amazing that these fishes still have enough energy to reproduce after fighting the turbid treadmill of a flowing waterfall.
Closer to sea, in the shallows of the river, dog salmon were evidently staging and waiting for the perfect tide to start their run up stream. Any day now these amazing fish will begin their terminal trek to natal streams for procreation and eventually death.
