George Island and the Inian Islands
We woke this morning on a soft, grey, foggy Alaskan day, the calm waters around us reflecting tree-cloaked islands, whales blowing and sea lions growling in the near distance. During breakfast the National Geographic Sea Bird transited South Inian Pass, moving from Icy Straits to Cross Sound, which leads to the open Pacific. By the time we had finished our bacon, eggs, oatmeal and pancakes our ship was at anchor in Granite Cove, a lovely little bay on the south coast of George Island. Expedition Leader Sue Perin presented us with a variety of options for hiking and/or kayaking and before long we were in the Zodiacs and off for our morning excursions.
Currents were running strong around the little island this morning, but the smooth water and low swells made it possible for us to enjoy a good paddle around the corner of the bay to see a dramatic rock arch, its outer limb climbing vertically out of the sea to a bridge covered with moss and trees. Puffins flew above us and the kelp created beautiful swirling patterns on the water all around.
Just behind the beach, the hikers came upon the first evidence of a major project dating back to the Second World War. Large iron and steel debris was scattered through the forest, including a huge retort that had been a pressure cooker at a salmon cannery. In this case though, the vessel had been repurposed as a dry storage container for the military. They were here in 1942, to install an 8-foot cannon on the far side of the island where it overlooked Cross Sound and thus guarded the entrance to the Inside Passage. Since no invasion was attempted, the weapon never fired a shot in anger and as we stood beside it we looked out over a scene of peaceful beauty, watching as sea otters swam in the kelp below us and humpback whales surfaced in the distance.
After a warming and nourishing lunch on board we returned to the Inian Islands where the ship anchored again and we set out in the Zodiacs. This time we made our way out through the narrow passages and channels to the western side of the islands where the current was rushing in, swirling and upwelling in a dramatic demonstration of the energy of the tide. The Inian’s form a barrier between the Pacific and the protected waters of the Alexander Archipelago and it is through these narrow waterways that the huge volume of the tide flows in and out of Icy Straits, Glacier Bay, Chatham Strait and beyond. As the water floods in through the little islands it carries plankton, fish and other rich resources from the ocean beyond and a host of wildlife waits there to feed on it.
Cruising by the rocky, forested shores we saw tufted puffins flying out from their nesting burrows, sea otters doing the back stroke and dozens of giant Steller sea lions. Some of these impressive animals were hauled out on the rocks, the big bulls posturing to each other with their chests pushed out like body-builders, which gave us a great look at their sleek bodies and enormous front flippers. Best of all, many of them were out in the water, fishing in the swirling current, playing with each other and even approaching our boats for a close look. It was a thrilling excursion, a chance to be caught in the middle of the powerful physical forces and rich biological resources that build the foundation for the beautiful ecology of Southeast Alaska.
