Honeymoon Cove on Isla Danzante & Loreto
We spent the night riding a three-foot swell with the wind to our stern. The lights of Loreto were still on as we passed by. The sunlight illuminated the layered cliffs of the Sierra de la Giganta as the sun crept over Isla del Carmen. Captain Kay steered our ship into the lee of Isla Danzante, The Dancer. Here we found protection from the wind with spectacular rugged mountains as a backdrop. This is a great place to snorkel, kayak and hike, a perfect cove for a honeymoon as its name implies.
Soon after breakfast our feet were pressing into sand. The cove is a narrow indentation in the island that faces volcanic cliffs that rise up thousands of feet. Some found it to be a perfect place to merely sit and enjoy the comings and goings of Zodiacs and kayaks, to see pelicans occasionally diving, and to chat with fellow passengers. Snorkelers followed a rocky shoreline along one side of the cove and watched scissortail and giant damselfish, sergeant majors, porcupine fish and Cortez rainbow wrasses. Most kayakers seemed quite skilled as they avoided the pitfalls that wind can provide. They were able to hug the shoreline or find a mosaic of protected water while still getting close to pelicans and American oystercatchers. Just before lunch we were back aboard and preparing for more adventures.
Shortly after docking in Puerto Escondido we were whisked away by vans and soon were walking about in the charming town of Loreto. Most of us started our exploring at the mission that was first built in 1697. This historical point was once the mother of all Jesuit missions for the state we now know as California. All of those churches that young students learn about in the history of that state originated here.
We were soon off to other adventures. Towns mean a shopping opportunity for some and the pressure of buying Christmas gifts was a great incentive. A guided walk to a local market with one of the naturalists provided great insight into the local culture of this fascinating town.
One group walked down to the marina and breakwater to watch diving pelicans and see other birds. On very windy days the sea is so turbulent that pelicans, boobies, and other plunge-divers can’t see well among the waves, so they feed in more protected water. The marina is a perfect place. Brown pelicans fly slowly into the wind searching the calm waters below until they see a fish. Then they lock their eyes onto it, turn straight down and drop like a rock. As they get closer they pull their wings in and at the last second throw them backwards forming an arrow shape as they pierce the water like a dart. The bill opens just slightly and expands explosively to fill with several gallons of water and perhaps a hapless fish.
The image of a pelican at the moment just before it strikes the water is difficult to capture for a photographer, but what a thrill to try. With the advent of digital photography, auto focus, and continuous high- speed shutter releases, it is possible to catch that point just before entry. Even if you don’t, it sure can be fun for a lot of us to try.
As light dimmed and dinner time neared, we found ourselves in vans heading home to the National Geographic Sea Bird.
