Los Islotes & Isla Partida
A clanging anchor chain signaled the arrival at our morning destination of Los Islotes, the islets. The barking and bellowing of California sea lions was evident once the anchor was set. The small, rocky islands in front of the ship are a perfect spot for loafing sea lions. Abundant food is available, there are no terrestrial predators, and there are plenty of rocks and ledges for a good snooze.
Just after breakfast, we boarded Zodiacs for a closer look at these fascinating marine mammals and the seabirds that frequent this outcrop of rugged volcanic tuff. Adult males stood out from the others due to their dark-colored coats, their larger size, and the prominent bump on their foreheads. Limp sea lion bodies draped over the most uncomfortable looking perches. Now and then one individual moved, jostling with its neighbors for the best sunbathing spot. Several of the rather large pups, now about 6 months old, nursed from their blond mothers. Blue-footed and brown boobies, yellow-footed gulls, and Brandt’s cormorants caught the updrafts overhead. At the water’s edge, bright orange Sally Lightfoot crabs scuttled on tiptoed legs.
The next activity for the day was snorkeling. The water temperature was a surprisingly warm 73 degrees. Blue-chinned parrotfish, yellow-tailed surgeonfish and numerous other colorful species swirled past below us, but the true highlight was the sea lions. Although they can readily scramble over the rocks above the surface, they are in their element when underwater. They raced circles around us, and then stopped to look closely at the rather clumsy creatures that temporarily joined them in their realm. Then they swam off again in an instant. It was quite a thrill to watch the antics of these streamlined creatures within their undersea world.
The National Geographic Sea Bird relocated a short distance to Ensenada Grande for the afternoon. There was something here for everyone. Hiking, snorkeling, kayaking, swimming and relaxing all became possibilities. This sheltered, teal-blue cove is embraced by spectacular geologic formations. Differential weathering of the volcanic rocks has resulted in what looks like dripping frosting clinging to the hillsides. Kayaks slipped beneath these stunning cliffs and snorkelers explored the crystal-clear water. The canyon itself winds back from a white-sand beach that became more exposed as the tide dropped throughout the afternoon. The desert appeared flushed with greenery, evidence of rain in the not-too-distant past. Antelope ground squirrels hopped over the rocky terrain near our path. Lizards darted into hiding places at our approach. The largest of these, the banded rock lizard in the photo, sunned itself in the late afternoon light.
As the sun sank low to the west, we returned to the ship. The hotel staff served margaritas out on deck so that we could leisurely enjoy our final sunset aboard. We remained at this sheltered anchorage throughout the night, a perfect end to our adventures together sailing the Sea of Cortez.
