Los Islotes & Ensenada Grande

Just before sunrise, Captain Coughlin neatly tucked the National Geographic Sea Bird into a sweet lee behind the protective rocky outcrop of Los Islotes; the islets off the north end of Isla Espiritu Santo. Soft light and deep shadow outlined the rugged shapes of this highly eroded remnant of volcanic tuff while white tufts of guano softened the stark rock. From the rocky ledges came the barking sounds of California sea lions as this place is the southernmost breeding colony of these delightful creatures here in the Sea of Cortes. It’s been a good year for this population and an abundance of juvenile sea lions leapt and played with the boats, buoys, snorkelers and each other. Above our Zodiacs, a pair of blue-footed boobies perched on the rocks and strutted about, showing off their remarkable webbed feet to a prospective mate while a pair of marauding ravens set up housekeeping in a small cave.

Ensenada Grande is aptly named, not only for its size but for its grandeur. Drifting your kayak along the layered red rocks covered with green columnar cacti while dipping your paddle into turquoise water is an exquisite experience. Exploring the dramatic canyon by foot is equally captivating. When the downward trill of the canyon wren vibrates down the mountainside and strikes your ear, for a moment- the world is perfect. The plants here have also had a good season. Heavy rains from a hurricane a few months ago have colored the desert green and covered shrubs and cacti with vines. We found this friendly endemic antelope ground squirrel Ammospermophilus insularis, munching on what looked like small snap peas…actually a vining bean known as phaseolus.

It’s been a grand day of Sonoran desert sights and sounds, shadows and light. Tomorrow we journey across the sea and on to more red rock country-the Copper Canyon!