Ideal Cove / Petersburg
A high ceiling and incredibly low tide greeted us this morning as the crew and passengers aboard the National Geographic Sea Lion awoke in Frederick Sound. Following last night’s full moon we set anchor in Ideal Cove- 6 miles south of Petersburg- to the lowest tides of the trip. Lining the exposed muddy shorelines were small metal crab pots, left high and dry from the tide and occasionally decorated with an eager bald eagle peering in through the gaps.
Our morning took us to the edge of the Tongass National Forest and began along the shores of Fredrick Sound. Winding through 250 years of plant succession our trail (actually a well constructed, raised system of planks) took us from the forest edge, along streambeds, past lush patches of moss and skunk cabbage and up to a beautiful open meadow showcasing a series of small lakes. These lakes, harboring an array of waterborne plants such as pond lily, cotton grass and bog bean take on a dark appearance as a result of their proximity to the western hemlocks- which dye the waters with their tea colored tannins. This out and back trail allowed for a quiet, peaceful interlude in a truly dynamic temperate rainforest ecosystem before having to set course for the “big” city of Petersburg up north a few miles.
Petersburg is Alaska’s commercial fishing hub and, as a result, houses a vast array of fishing vessels and crew that come here during the summer months to take in the bounty of pink salmon, halibut, crabs and more that live in the waters nearby. Some guests took it upon themselves to explore and set off in various courses on their own. Guided by the blazing sun and unusually warm weather, many people hopped on a bike to see a larger slice of life in Petersburg, while others strolled the docks in small groups to admire the fleet of ships and hard working individuals taking advantage of the weather to prepare for the opening of the fishing season. With nets being hung and lines coiled up, patches being fixed, dogs walking and kids wheel barrowing around there is little doubt the sun and warmth put a bounce in everyone’s step, including ours.
Before heading back into Frederick Sound one last walk was offered to expose an often hidden niche of the Alaskan ecosystem. Crossing over Wrangell Narrows via Petersburg we were shuttled in Zodiacs to the trail head of Petersburg Creek trail. This short but diverse out and back trail along another set of raised planks took us from second growth Sitka spruce forest, through patches of yellow cedar and suddenly into an expansive clearing comprised of saturated sphagnum mosses, stunted shore pines and a milieu of tiny, hardy plants. This muskeg environment (as it’s known) is believed to be the culmination of millennia worth of little to no decay as drainage of a forested area gets cut off and begins the slow accumulation of debris that has no means to break down.
With the late afternoon sun beaming down, a pleasant gentle breeze at our backs and a host of 5 to 9 thousand foot peaks ahead, our cruise out of Petersburg’s harbor solidified the perfection of our day.
