Inian Islands / George Island
Waking up at the edge of the Pacific Ocean to glassy calm seas and blue skies is never an anticipated start to a day this far north. Not that anyone aboard the National Geographic Sea Lion was unappreciative of the conditions, but the combination certainly was a welcomed surprise.
After anchoring in a protected cove called the Hobbit Hole, our morning included a winding Zodiac cruise along the edge of the Pacific and the maze of small islands peppered along the northern tip of Chichagof Island. To our north loomed the Fairweather range, home to the Brady Ice field and a multitude of glaciers that could be seen pouring from its elevated basin. To our west, the open ocean and, 2,000 miles beyond, Japan. Despite these iconic features, what ended up competing most for our attention was the multitude of life we found near or below our Zodiacs. Playful, inquisitive Steller sea lions wrestled and rolled and splashed in the tidal rips that surged under our boats and helped to stir up the plankton, that drew the insects, that lured the salmon, that enticed the sea lions which left behind scraps for the gulls. The food chain was played out in full from our rubber platform and all we had to do was sit back, soak up the sun and watch.
Leaving the turbulent flood of liquid moving between these narrow water-ways didn’t seem to slow the activity. In the lee of the tidal currents we were quick to find a lone humpback mere feet from the shoreline, weaving its way in and out of the kelp beds. Seemingly unaware of our presence, it proceeded to lunge and roll in all manner of intensity as it was likely using the shore to corral small schooling fish. Punctuated between these maneuvers were tail slaps and pectoral flashes, which could be further evidence that it was herding unseen morsels.
From one of the largest of the marine mammals we were quick to transition to the smallest. The sea otter is perhaps the most expressive of the marine mammal representatives and in this naturalist’s opinion, the most interesting. Lucky enough to spot a mother with her newborn kit, we watched as she took great caution in our approach and only after tucking her newborn under her arm, dove beneath the kelp. Before her retreat we could see the way she carried the youngster on her belly as millions of fine air trapping hairs helped to keep her and the couple week old newbie afloat.
As our outing ended, we begrudgingly turned back towards the ship but not away from more exploration and sun. Very near our morning anchorage is a small chunk of land called George Island which, like so many we saw today is at the edge of the open Pacific. Taking to the shores, as well as our kayaks, we peppered ourselves around the exposed yet particularly placid waters in search of intertidal life, new plants and just good old peace and quiet. Our small group of youngsters took little time finding a tree swing hidden just beyond the rocky shore while hiking groups and tide-poolers ventured off in every direction to soak up the weather and scenery.
With two great new locations under our belts the anchor was raised and our motors trained towards the great façade of rock and ice to the north- the same range that beckoned us throughout the day and marks the boundary to tomorrow’s adventures in Glacier Bay National Park!
