Inian Islands / Fox Creek
Take the largest ocean in the world, place yourself at its 58th line of latitude, head to its eastern edge where there is a small grouping of islands and then imagine the tides squeezing all that water between the narrow channels separating them. Now, imagine all the planktonic organisms (aka plant-like “drifters”) that are funneled through as the tides rise and fall. Add to that the animals that feed on them (small schooling fish, krill, etc.) and the animals that feed on them (salmon, whales, etc.) and the animals that feed on them (Steller Sea Lions, sea otters, seals.) I think you get the idea. Now image these writhing, turbulent tidal waters which are stirring up this life-blood of the sea cradled beneath a perfect blue sky and the world’s highest coastal mountain range just to our north. And, if that were not enough, factor in zero winds and a glass calm ocean at the periphery of this biological soup and you can just begin to sum up our morning in the Inian Islands.
After hours spent winding our way through the narrow kelp strewn channels and broad open stretches of ocean we returned to National Geographic Sea Lion to set course towards our next anchorage a short distance SE. Before we could do so we were distracted by repetitive, distant splashes. Contrasted off the deep blue waters every white burst signaled one breach or tail lob after another as a lone humpback whale seemed determined to hurl itself into exhaustion. Its relatively small frame gave away its age as this youngster tossed pectoral flipper, tail and body out of the water time and time again as we watched on, fascinated by the sheer stamina it was displaying.
After nearly an hour we finally got back on track and anchored near a landing named Fox Creek. Known for wildflowers and bear trails there was no shortage of either. Hikes headed off from the beach across all manner of trail as a labyrinth of head-high beach rye grass and Sitka alder stood between us and the forest beyond. Staying ever bear-diligent we utilized these crisscrossing bear paths to guide us to two distinct bear hangouts. One is evident if you are paying attention to the ground as there is a row of ancestral bear prints stretching across a section of the low-lying vegetation. For some reason the local bears have put their paw prints in the exact same spot every time they walk through this area leaving behind distinct footprints over the years. Not only that, but they appear to lead right to a tree which has many signs of bear use, including scratches and pieces of fur stuck in the bark. There is little doubt the bears use this area often, but unfortunately for us we never had a chance to see the culprits.
With a full day in already we heaved anchor for our short transit to the entrance of tomorrow’s destination- Glacier Bay National Park. Guided by a nearly full moon, pinks of the waning sun and an escort of breaching humpback whales we motored into the sunset and out of one of the most action packed days of the season.
