Laguna de San Ignacio, Baja California Sur

With the birth of a new day, we looked out the windows of the National Geographic Sea Lion. The sky was almost clear, and the wind had died down at the entrance to this very large ocean lagoon on the west side of the peninsula of Baja California.

This is Mexico’s largest undisturbed by human development gray whale breeding lagoon; it forms part of the “El Vizcaino Biosphere Reserve,” a huge area of central Baja California dedicated to the preservation of all natural life, including ocean life. The laws for whale watching here are very stringently enforced, with the hope that this human activity will not bother these lovely behemoths, and that they will keep on returning here, year after year, to give birth to their young, born “Mexican by birth,” as well as to breed. Those females that did not produce a young this year will mate and return to Alaska, pregnant.

We had an early breakfast, and immediately took off into the lagoon (of which you cannot even see the end at the horizon), past the entrance sand bars and into the whale-watching area. Here various females with young met us, and after short distance adjustments with our Zodiacs, we had the fortune to see these animals close-up. And then, more than close-up, as soon the females brought their calves up to our Zodiacs to show them off! (Why not?). The young would push their heads out of the water on to the sides of the Zodiacs, where we gloriously were able to rub them carefully. Then mother would repeat this behavior so we could touch her! This went on for a good time, till we were ready to return.

As we sped off, good numbers of bottle-nosed dolphins would bow-ride us for short periods of time. Many birds were seen in the area; among them were cormorants, brown pelicans, and royal terns. A short time later we were at our ship, where we had a succulent lunch. A third group left in the afternoon for more whale-watching, returning a while thereafter with smiles creasing their faces! Breaching baby gray whales next to the Zodiacs! What else?

After preparing ourselves for the cocktail hour, we enjoyed some quiet time, and then listened to an interesting recapitulation of the day. Yes, what a day!!