Stewart Island / Ulva Island
New Zealand is a rather green country. It is quite enlightened when it comes to environmental matters, and politically the country cultivates a “green” image. But as we have cruised down the eastern side of the North and South Islands, the landscapes we’ve seen have not always been verdant. That’s because the east side is the dry side, in the rain-shadow of the interior highlands. So it was quite a dramatic change for us today when we arrived at Stewart Island. Tucked away in the far south, Stewart Island is New Zealand’s third largest landmass, and it is extremely green. Our visit today started with a hike on Ulva Island, close to Stewart Island’s only settlement. Ulva is clad in dense podacarp forest and has been the scene of some intense conservation efforts. Introduced predators, the bane of New Zealand wildlife the length of the country, have been eradicated from Ulva and the result is a green treasure resounding with bird song. With our knowledgable local guides, we were treated to excellent views of such native birds as mohua (yellowhead), toutouwai (robin) and tieke (South Island saddleback). New Zealand forest birds will often approach visitors, and it was easy to see how this behaviour makes them vulnerable to exotic predators like rats and cats.
In the afternoon some of us explored the wee village of Oban, our last spot of civilisation on this trip, while others ventured forth on another hike. Our destination this time was wild Ocean Beach. This sandy crescent was notable for its beautiful surf and the numerous footprints left by the many nocturnal kiwi that forage on the shoreline.
This is the southernmost point of our cruise (46º 56’S), as we now turn north and head to the rugged isolation of Fiordland.
