Durres, Tirane & Kruje, Albania
Once anchored in Durres, a major port that during the Roman Empire served as the starting point along the Via Egnatia to Constantinople, we had our initial introduction to Albania by our local guide David in the lounge of the Panorama. We then set out through the verdant countryside to the bustling capital city of Tirane.
The ride into Tirane was fascinating: a study in contrasts, where ultra modern gas stations stand right next to open fields with a cow or two grazing on wildflowers. Enver Hoxher ruled Albania with an iron fist and gradually isolated this country from any outside influences even from the Soviet Union and China. As a result, the transition from communism to democracy was abrupt and tumultuous. In 1997 the collapse of the pyramid schemes left almost everyone bankrupt and there was a period of anarchy throughout the country.
Our visit to the National History Museum provided much needed historical perspective on this nation's complex development. The Museum was built in 1981 and many of the exhibits are the original ones that provide the official narrative of the Albanian people tracing their lineage back to the ancient Illyrians. In fact, this land was occupied by the ancient Illyrians, then various empires – Greek, Roman, Venetian and Ottoman – all of whom have left their mark on the cultural landscape.
There is an impressive display of rifles decorated with elaborate filagree silver, an indication of the fact that the right to bear arms was one of the motivations for Christians to convert to Islam under the Ottoman rule. There is also a spectacular display of Orthodox icons to remind us of the continuing presence of multiple religions in the area, not only Christian (Orthodox and Catholic), but Judaism and several sects of Islam, including the relatively secular Bektashi.
We then walked from Skanderberg Square down the main boulevard. The population of Tirane has exploded with the influx of people from the villages and new construction (both legal and illegal) has created a hodgepodge of architecture. The young mayor Edi Rama has been the main force behind a face-lift for the capitol: whimsical crazy quilts of color have rejuvenated formerly sober gray Communist-era buildings, and there are many new modern structures as well as parks. Our destination was the restaurant “Juvenilia” where we were greeted by an Albanian folk group that performed traditional music and dances while we feasted on a banquet of local delicacies such as mussels and calamari from the coast, cheese-stuffed burek, various croquettes made with potatoes and cornmeal, as well as a variety of salads. The local wine and beer was excellent and inspired some of us to join in the dancing as lunch drew to a close.
Our next destination was the old capitol of Kruje perched high in the mountains in the land of eagles (the meaning of Albanian word for their nation “Shqiperia”). The Ethnographic Museum is an 18th century house which has been restored almost entirely to its original state. The local caretaker gave us not only a tour, but demonstrated the way in which people lived and worked in the village. We toured the forge, distillery and olive oil press on the first level and then worked our way up to the living quarters. Everything was arranged in the traditional manner, from the “harem” where the women of the house stayed when guests were present to the small hamam (bathhouse) with windows in the domed ceiling. The museum has a spectacular collection of old textiles and costumes, especially fine wedding attire embroidered with seed pearls.
The Skanderberg Museum is an exceptionally well executed military history museum. George Kastrioti was one of many Balkan sons who were taken to Constantinople as part of the “tribute” or “tax” levied by the Ottoman Turks. He was converted to Islam and trained in the Ottoman Army. He then returned to Albania and used his military expertise to successfully defend the old capitol of Kruje from his former masters.
We wandered along the cobblestone streets of the Kruje Bazaar – again a mixture of old and new. Brightly colored kitchen magnets are displayed next to old copper briki (Turkish style coffee pots), traditional jewelry and textiles. In several of the shops local women were making rugs using traditional looms that looked exactly like those in the Ethnographic Museum. Today was a fascinating day providing us with many “firsts” to discuss over dinner back at the Panorama.
Once anchored in Durres, a major port that during the Roman Empire served as the starting point along the Via Egnatia to Constantinople, we had our initial introduction to Albania by our local guide David in the lounge of the Panorama. We then set out through the verdant countryside to the bustling capital city of Tirane.
The ride into Tirane was fascinating: a study in contrasts, where ultra modern gas stations stand right next to open fields with a cow or two grazing on wildflowers. Enver Hoxher ruled Albania with an iron fist and gradually isolated this country from any outside influences even from the Soviet Union and China. As a result, the transition from communism to democracy was abrupt and tumultuous. In 1997 the collapse of the pyramid schemes left almost everyone bankrupt and there was a period of anarchy throughout the country.
Our visit to the National History Museum provided much needed historical perspective on this nation's complex development. The Museum was built in 1981 and many of the exhibits are the original ones that provide the official narrative of the Albanian people tracing their lineage back to the ancient Illyrians. In fact, this land was occupied by the ancient Illyrians, then various empires – Greek, Roman, Venetian and Ottoman – all of whom have left their mark on the cultural landscape.
There is an impressive display of rifles decorated with elaborate filagree silver, an indication of the fact that the right to bear arms was one of the motivations for Christians to convert to Islam under the Ottoman rule. There is also a spectacular display of Orthodox icons to remind us of the continuing presence of multiple religions in the area, not only Christian (Orthodox and Catholic), but Judaism and several sects of Islam, including the relatively secular Bektashi.
We then walked from Skanderberg Square down the main boulevard. The population of Tirane has exploded with the influx of people from the villages and new construction (both legal and illegal) has created a hodgepodge of architecture. The young mayor Edi Rama has been the main force behind a face-lift for the capitol: whimsical crazy quilts of color have rejuvenated formerly sober gray Communist-era buildings, and there are many new modern structures as well as parks. Our destination was the restaurant “Juvenilia” where we were greeted by an Albanian folk group that performed traditional music and dances while we feasted on a banquet of local delicacies such as mussels and calamari from the coast, cheese-stuffed burek, various croquettes made with potatoes and cornmeal, as well as a variety of salads. The local wine and beer was excellent and inspired some of us to join in the dancing as lunch drew to a close.
Our next destination was the old capitol of Kruje perched high in the mountains in the land of eagles (the meaning of Albanian word for their nation “Shqiperia”). The Ethnographic Museum is an 18th century house which has been restored almost entirely to its original state. The local caretaker gave us not only a tour, but demonstrated the way in which people lived and worked in the village. We toured the forge, distillery and olive oil press on the first level and then worked our way up to the living quarters. Everything was arranged in the traditional manner, from the “harem” where the women of the house stayed when guests were present to the small hamam (bathhouse) with windows in the domed ceiling. The museum has a spectacular collection of old textiles and costumes, especially fine wedding attire embroidered with seed pearls.
The Skanderberg Museum is an exceptionally well executed military history museum. George Kastrioti was one of many Balkan sons who were taken to Constantinople as part of the “tribute” or “tax” levied by the Ottoman Turks. He was converted to Islam and trained in the Ottoman Army. He then returned to Albania and used his military expertise to successfully defend the old capitol of Kruje from his former masters.
We wandered along the cobblestone streets of the Kruje Bazaar – again a mixture of old and new. Brightly colored kitchen magnets are displayed next to old copper briki (Turkish style coffee pots), traditional jewelry and textiles. In several of the shops local women were making rugs using traditional looms that looked exactly like those in the Ethnographic Museum. Today was a fascinating day providing us with many “firsts” to discuss over dinner back at the Panorama.
