Sarande, Butrint & Palermo, Albania

The Panorama docked early this morning in the southern Albanian port of Sarande. Following this, we would be visiting a UNESCO World Heritage Site called Butrint. The importance of this archaeological site is immeasurable. It is considered a microcosm of Mediterranean history, representing the rise and fall of all the great empires that have played important and influential roles throughout the Balkan Peninsula, from the Illyrians and the Greeks through the Romans, Byzantines, Venetians and Ottoman Turks.

The first half of our day would be spent walking through a small section of this site that represents a span of over two thousand years from the Hellenistic temple buildings of the 4th century BC to the Ottoman defenses built in the early 19th century.

Leaving the Panorama at her dock in Sarande and boarding two buses, we traveled 45 minutes inland to the site of Butrint. The excavation of this site was not begun until the late 1920’s, and due to the political climate and history of Albania, only a small part of this very important archaeological site has been investigated. It remains not just shrouded in mystery, but the natural world of plants lives to continually decorate the site.

We began our walking tour, entering into what had been the old theatre, then saw ancient baths, the baptistery and the Byzantine basilica, all part of the lower section of the Butrint site. From here we had an option to continue under the Lion’s Gate, up a slight incline, through the forest and out onto the Acropolis, with its views in several directions. Commemorating this important part of Butrint was a small but excellent museum where many of the important artifacts found during the excavation are housed.

After this early morning visit our group had two possible choices, before returning to the Panorama for lunch: a short trip to the Ottoman Castle of Lekursit, perched scenically atop Sarande harbor, or a return to the port itself for an opportunity to walk through Sarande returning on foot to the harbor and the Panorama.

Excellent views of the surrounding countryside with some specialties of the local cuisine and refreshments were enjoyed by those who went to the castle, while those of us who walked through the port of Sarande had a chance to visit a local market. Fine cheese, olive oil, fresh local peaches and friendly and curious locals enjoyed our visit as much as we enjoyed the opportunity to get a quick glimpse of everyday life in Albania.

Once everyone was back on board the Panorama we made a short passage to the small bay of Porto Palermo. Our plan was for some kayaking, swimming and a sunset visit to Ali Pasha’s Castle located on one side of the harbor. A few rainsqualls passed by, followed by a double rainbow, signaling an opportunity to move, in mass, making a short walk toward the castle.

Drawn by a serenade of traditional Albanian flute, we entering the main entrance and were greeted with a candlelit walkway leading us up to the top floor of the castle where we found some of our hotel staff waiting with hors d’oeuvres and wine. A brief introduction to our musician and his cousin, a remarkable singer, was made by our Albanian hosts and then we were carried away on the wonderful sounds of a very unusual flute and a song preserved since the time of Ali Pasha himself.

This was a moving and fitting farewell to Albania, a country in tremendous forward motion, though still retaining a unique thread of cultural diversity and integrity through political and economic strife.