Mljet National Park & Korcula, Croatia

An unexpected storm lit up the night sky and the sea was restless this morning. Many of us felt as if we had been rocked in a cradle by an overenthusiastic nursemaid. The captain and crew of the Panorama nimbly changed course so that we avoided the worst of the rough seas, however, and the delay to starting our day was minimal.

We anchored off the small fishing village of Pomena and took tenders to the entrance to Mljet National Park. It was an easy hike through the forest of Aleppo pine and Holm oak to the picturesque bridge that joins Veliko Jezero (Big Lake) and Malo Jezero (Small Lake). A brief boat ride away is the island of Sveti Marija where we visited the Dominican monastery now under reconstruction (a process that has revealed evidence of earlier Roman and Illyrian occupants).

When we returned to the juncture of the two lakes, Alex and his crew had set up camp with refreshing beverages and sandwiches, as well as towels for anyone wanting to swim in the warm lagoon waters. Bicycles were available, and many took this opportunity to explore the island on two wheels, although others preferred walking the trails to commune more closely with the local flora and fauna (luckily all the poisonous snakes had been banished from the island in the 1960's).

The afternoon found us in Korcula, known for its wines and olive oil. Following my lecture “The Language Formerly Known as Serbo-Croatian,” we took a walking tour of this charming town whose street layout resembles that of a fish bone. This unique arrangement maximizes the benefits and minimizes the drawbacks of the various winds (notably the Bura and the Jugo) in this area.

Our guides Daria and Andrea led us through St. Mark's Cathedral, the Bishop's Palace and the Church of All Saints where we learned of the customs of the various Brotherhoods on the island (one of which is carrying a huge candle weighing 20-30 kilos for several hours during the yearly procession). There is also an extensive collection of Byzantine icons here.

One of our stops was the alleged house where Marco Polo was born (he was apparently both a citizen of Venice and a native son of Korcula). An unscheduled stop at the bakery “Cukarin” for samples of almond cookies specific to the island delighted our sense of taste and smell. We then feasted on the visual spectacle of the Moreska sword dance – an epic battle between red and black kings for a damsel in distress. This is a tradition handed down from generation to generation and a demonstration not only of skill with swords, but also physical endurance.

We remained docked until midnight so it was possible to take a stroll after dinner or listen to the rock concert in the harbor.