Sifnos Island in the Cyclades
Gently swinging on anchor we fell asleep under the temple of Poseidon. Long silver shadows cast by a glimmering full moon reached across the bay and out to sea, the Aegean Sea.
We started our first day in the Cyclades at the rocky island of Sifnos. When looking at the Cyclades Islands, Delos is in the center of this island complex, Sifnos is in the “7 o’clock” position, along the western edge.
Our first visit was to the fortified town of Kastro. The stacked cubes of whitewashed buildings stood stark against the nearly barren landscape. These painted homes are a striking visual as well as historical contrast on the landscape. Earlier inhabitants wanted to be less conspicuous to potential marauding pirates, and kept their homes in the natural colors of the slate, from which they were built. Perched upon houses were terra cotta clay flaros, chimney caps created with a flair for decoration melded with function.
Another creation of the potters is the gastra. This is a piece of cookware designed to sit in an oven for many hours and slowly cook a simple but flavorful meal. Great chefs know the benefits of a well-used gastro. We found samples of these and many more pottery forms when we later strolled along the shops at the port of Kamares.
The cubed houses sat in a geometric landscape of layered rectangles. The slopes of the land over the centuries have been leveled into arable terraces. Historically, cereal crops such as wheat would have been planted in these cookie cutter levels. Today, these stair steps trap soil and moisture for olive trees, vineyards and a few hardy fig trees.
Panagia Chrissopiyi is a visual delight. Perched on a scenic peninsula jutting out into the bay, the blue dome of the church highlighted the calm blue waters surrounding this small center of spirituality.
Our morning left us full of information, but it also created an insatiable desire for water. Jumping into the water, to be more specific. For the afternoon we repositioned the Panorama and with Panagia Chrissopiyi now as a backdrop, we whiled away the afternoon swimming, sunning and relaxing in the cool clear Aegean waters.
With a not so full moon rising this evening, we once again enjoyed moonlight, stars, a few planets and the tired, relaxed feeling of a full and lovely day spent in the Greek Isles.
